I'm experiencing a strange problem:
* When using the key fob, appr 50% of the time the driver's door will not lock/unlock when using the remote key fob. The door lock/unlock easy using the key in the door lock itself, though. I've of course installed a new battery in the remote.
* However: when using the Lock button on the dashboard, ALL doors lock/unlock every time I've tried that !

The driver door lock cable has recently been replaced, and the garage that did that work claim that everything is OK with the wires and connectors.

Any ideas what causes the irregular lock/unlock problem with the remote?

does this happen with your spare key?

if so then its something that the garage has done.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Happens with both keys. Could it be the door actuator ? But why only half the time using the remote, and not when using the lock button on the dash?

the internal door lock switch is a direct feed to the lock so thats why that works all the time..

the remote might be sending a signal to the lock but the lock isnt processing that signal to unlock/lock..could be the actuator or a dodgy connection to it.... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

I had this with mine when I changed out the door actuator. When putting it back in I inadvertently placed the metal link rod for the interior door button too close to the door lock rod (the one that you actually put your key in and turn the lock). This caused the link rod to rub against the door lock and only work sporadically, my train of thought was that power from the remote receiver to the door actuator wasn't as strong as from the centre dash button.

To diagnose I simply just had to take out the door lock and look in, as it's much easier to do that than take off the door panel and sure enough there was the door button rod where it shouldn't be. I then took off the door panel and placed the rod to where it should have been in the first place and all has been well since.

Good luck.. ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Thanks Stan and UK Marine, seems that it most likely is the metal link rod misplacement after the new door wire mounting that is causing this, as you points out, UK Marine!
It will be my problem to try to fix this, however, since the LR service company that did the door wire replacement is located veeeery far from my home....

I had the door panel off on Saturday, but I couldn't figure out if the link rod was placed correctly or not? How do you "take the lock out" easily? To me the door locking mechanism is very hard to get access to behind the door panel!
The problem with sporadically locking/unlocking failure of the driver door continues...

Hi,

When I said lock out I meant the key barrel. Open the front drivers door and on the edge of the door near to the latch opening you will see a grommet, take the grommet out and there will be a torx head screw.

Take the torx head screw out and then wiggle the lock barrel out. This will give sufficient space to view the rod / door latch assembly to see if one is obstructing the other.

Be careful when putting the lock barrel back as the actuating rod from the barrel needs to be placed accurately or it won't work.....

Good luck  ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

Hi UK Marine, seems that the door layout is different from a 04 and a 07 (which I have), the rod has only one place to be placed in the 07 door layout.

Anyway - had the car to an indy today, replacing the door lock actuator (which was bought from Dan at Duckworthparts). Same problem with the new lock (actually even worse now - the new lock will never lock/unlock using neither the keyfob or the lock button on the dash).

So now its back to the indy next week to do a proper investigation; most likely it's the wiring from the door to the A-pillar...

Hi,

Well I hope you get to the bottom of the problem I know how frustrating it can be with these elusive niggles....

Regards ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current

The result from the workshop's investigation today was that it is the central unit (ECU?) for the windows/mirrors/access lowering etc inside the driver door that is not working 100%, and this influences the drivers door locking. So now they've ordered a new such unit (~ £600!).

So: If you experience that one of the doors do not lock/unlock when using the key fob, but does lock/unlock using the central locking button on the dash, it could be that it is the central windows steering unit inside the drivers door that is causing this malfunction.

Well spotted Eirik. I'm pleased that it looks like you've gotten to the bottom of the problem.... ______________________________
Simon
______________________________

Range Rover Classic 3.5 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 efi - Gone
Range Rover Classic 4.2 LSE - Sadly gone
Land Rover 110 3.5 - Gone
Range Rover P38a 4.0 SE - Pleased it's gone
Range Rover P38a 2.5 DHSE - Just sold
Range Rover L322 4.4 v8 Petrol - Current