After a disastrous flat tyre change last sat I decided to replace my wheel nuts as they had swollen - I opted to go for complete stainless rather than the stainless capped OEM's as I feel its something thats gonna happen again.

Question is tho - when fitting them I intend to clean the threads on the studs but do I coat them with anything to stop galvanic corrosion?

I really dont like the idea of using copperslip but was thinking a light coating of oil may help prevent a reaction?

Maybe I'm worrying too much?

When I had swollen nuts (ooh matron) I considered stainless, but was advised against by the dealer workshop foreman (a person whose judgement I trust) and as I got new LR standard ones under warranty didn't need to consider it further. I did some research online and there did seem to be some evidence that stainless was worse for galvanic corrosion than mild. A search under stainless wheel nuts or similar might find the earlier thread where I identified the research, it was from some US construction body, in the context of aluminium panels on buildings I think.

On Classics etc fibre washers were deployed to try to stop corrosion at steel/alloy interfaces, but I'd wonder about the safety implications of putting that sort of thing on wheels.

My tyre shop advises that one should only use hand tools on wheel nuts as the air guns seem to make corrosion/swelling more likely. I don't know the science behind that, but have followed their advice. The replacement nuts have not swollen as yet (25 months, the old ones that did swell had done so at 35 months). Only Range Rovers since 1988

Even my OEM replaced locking nuts failed within 12 months of replacing them so doing away with them now.

I was told that fitting stainless nuts to steel studs can cause the studs to stretch (presumably only by over tightening the nut and it being harder) but Whenever I change wheels I always use a torque wrench set up to whatever the manual stated which seems significantly looser than what tyre shops air wrench them up to so I dont think I'll have to worry about stretch.

Think I'm gonna go with a light coat of oil after cleaning them up, research on web seems to suggest copperslip is fine but I just dont trust it.

I was advised many years ago by the best mechanic I've ever met to use copperslip on both the wheel/hub mating surfaces and the nut or bolt threads. I have done so on all my cars since of any make (primarily VW / Audi and JLR) and would never stop. I always use a torque wrench and have never experienced any issues but have often been glad I listened to that advice. 2012 TDV8 Westminster in the New Forest

Also: Land Rover Series 3 SWB, Mercedes 280SL, Classic Mini race replica, VW Golf SV
Previously: Audi A8, RR TDV8 Vogue, Audi Allroad, VW Golf GTI Edition 30, Audi A4 Avant, A8, A4 Sport, A6, VW Golf Mk5, Bora, Golf GTI Mk3, Jetta Mk3, Passat, Jetta Mk1, Golf Mk1