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MarcoPolo



Member Since: 07 Dec 2018
Location: Preston
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Baltic Blue
Bonnet release: battery flat and door lock not working

The battery on my 2003 Vogue went totally dead overnight, so the central locking wouldn’t unlock. I also discovered that I couldn’t unlock the driver’s door with the key (it being the only door with a key-operated lock). So, how to release the bonnet on a ‘sealed’ RR to gain access to the battery in order to charge or replace it, without doing damage running into hundreds?

Whilst the FFRR forum was a very useful source of information, I was unable to gain access to the starter motor cable from under the vehicle without jacking it up. For one thing, the only suitable jack was securely locked in the vehicle, and in any case I wasn’t comfortable working under a jacked-up 2 ton RR.

After much deliberation, I managed to release the bonnet by gaining access to the bonnet release cable by:

1. removing the off-side inner wing skin;
2. locating the bonnet release cable;
3. cutting the cable;
4. paring back the outer sheath and pulling the inner cable with an adjustable wrench.

Once the bonnet was opened, I could energise the electrical system using a second battery and jump leads, then open the RR using the central locking. After fixing the driver's door lock, I replaced the half of the bonnet release cable I’d cut which cost a modest £18.

For any other members who might find themselves in the same situation, I’ve produced an illustrated record below, using photos I took during the process, which I hope might be of use.

This is my first contribution, so I apologise in advance if I’ve broken any protocols.

--------------------------

Here’s an illustrated record of how I gained access to the bonnet release cable from outside the vehicle, so as to open the bonnet on a super-locked 2003 RR Vogue with a flat battery and a non-functioning driver’s door lock. I was able to do this without jacking up the vehicle, and with the road wheels still on. That said, a little under-vehicle work was required, so the usual safety precautions were necessary, including chocking wheels. There were 12 main steps.


1. Removed the front off-side (right hand) mud flap (see Photo 1).

Click image to enlarge



2. Removed the screw holding the lower wing panel to the upper wing panel (see Photo 2)

Click image to enlarge



3. Removed lower wing panel by carefully levering the pop-fasteners which hold it to the metal frame. I used a large screwdriver (see photos 3 and 4).

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge



4. The next step was to detach the inner wing skin and lower it onto the road wheel. The inner skin begins under the driver’s area and ends in the front spoiler. It’s attached in several places. Firstly, I removed the three fixings under the driver’s area, (see Photo 5).

Click image to enlarge



5. I then removed the four fixings around the air suspension mount. There are two forward of the air suspension mount (see Photo 6) and two at the rear of the mount.




6. Removed the fixings holding the inner skin to the front spoiler. There is one fixing holding the skin to the rear of the spoiler (see Photo 7) and two holding the skin to the underside of the spoiler (see Photo 8 ).






7. Removed the three plastic nuts which hold the skin to the three metal studs which pass through it (only one is shown in the Photo 9, but the other two are in the same plane and clearly visible).

Click image to enlarge



8. The inner wing skin could now be manoeuvred off the three studs (mentioned in step 7), the lip on the upper wing panel, and the front spoiler, then laid on top of the road wheel (see Photo 10).




9. This was the tricky step. The bonnet release cable isn’t directly visible when looking in from the from the wheel arch. It runs behind the chassis member to which the three aforementioned studs are attached, among several other cables and pipes, before entering the passenger compartment through the bulk head (see Photo 11).

Click image to enlarge



10. Using a mirror and torch, I was able to identify the bonnet release cable where it passes through the passenger compartment bulkhead (upper right, under the flexible hose, in Photo 12 below). I managed to get my camera in to photograph it, but it’s a little blurred due to being very close up.

Click image to enlarge



11. Very carefully (because I could not directly see it), I cut the bonnet release cable as close to the bulkhead gland as I could, making sure I cut the right cable! I could then bring the cable into sight, and strip back some of the outer sheath. Then, using suitable tools to grip the outer sheath and inner cable, I was able to pull the inner cable and release the bonnet. I used pliers and an adjustable grip as shown in Photos 13 and 14.





12. Before replacing the bonnet release cable, I'd recommend that the driver’s door lock be fixed so as to avoid being in this situation again. Once the bonnet release cable was replaced, reassembly was, as they say, the reverse process.

I hope this was of use to other members.

Post #508232 10th Mar 2019 8:10pm
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Mr Tee



Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Near Wackyjim
Posts: 2598

Scotland 

Looks brutal mate, IIRC you can get juice into the car via the wing indicator wiring.

Post #508263 11th Mar 2019 11:22am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6397

England 

Useful to know for when the bonnet release cable breaks (hopefully the one between the join and the handle)

Following on from Mr Tee, if you have a towbar, socket and wiring, you can power up through there as well .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #508275 11th Mar 2019 1:45pm
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Richycsurfer



Member Since: 18 Nov 2018
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 44

United Kingdom 2004 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Bonatti Grey

I took the battery out of my Td6 without checking my door lock first - so as i closed the bonnet i was locked out.

I tried giving the indicator power but it didn't work - i ended up getting a jump lead to the starter motor positive and earthing to any bolt that would allow. Not too difficult with a reasonable jack!

Post #508406 12th Mar 2019 11:25am
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MarcoPolo



Member Since: 07 Dec 2018
Location: Preston
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Baltic Blue

Mr Tee wrote:
Looks brutal mate, IIRC you can get juice into the car via the wing indicator wiring.


Yes, it was a bit! This is my first RR and I've a lot to lean, so this forum has been a great help. I wasn't aware that there was another way of energising the electrical system other than via the starter motor cable, so I'll definitely remember this if there's ever a next time. Thanks for your reply.

Post #508430 12th Mar 2019 2:43pm
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MarcoPolo



Member Since: 07 Dec 2018
Location: Preston
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Baltic Blue

Joe90 wrote:
Useful to know for when the bonnet release cable breaks (hopefully the one between the join and the handle)

Following on from Mr Tee, if you have a towbar, socket and wiring, you can power up through there as well


Thanks for your reply Joe. This is the start of my learning journey with Range Rovers, and this forum is invaluable. As I mentioned in my reply to Mr Tee, I wasn't aware that there was another way of energising the electrical system other than via the starter motor cable. I saw a post about energising via the tow bar electrics but, alas, mine doesn't have a tow bar, which sadly put the kybosh on that approach! Sad

Post #508433 12th Mar 2019 2:50pm
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MarcoPolo



Member Since: 07 Dec 2018
Location: Preston
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Baltic Blue

Richycsurfer wrote:
I took the battery out of my Td6 without checking my door lock first - so as i closed the bonnet i was locked out.

I tried giving the indicator power but it didn't work - i ended up getting a jump lead to the starter motor positive and earthing to any bolt that would allow. Not too difficult with a reasonable jack!


Many thanks Richy. I managed to slide under the RR and could just about see a little of the starter motor cable (mine's a V8 petrol so may be a different layout to the Td6), but without jacking the vehicle up there was absolutely no room to manoevre underneath. With the RR jack securely locked in the vehicle, and being somewhat reluctant to work under a jacked up vehicle, I took an alternative approach. However, I've leaned from Mr Tee and Joe90 that there are other methods as well (especially if the RR had tow bar electrics) so I'm better prepared for next time, although I hope there isn't one Smile

Post #508437 12th Mar 2019 3:01pm
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ianmacd



Member Since: 20 Aug 2013
Location: Sussex
Posts: 201

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Epsom Green

Joe90 wrote:
Useful to know for when the bonnet release cable breaks (hopefully the one between the join and the handle)

Following on from Mr Tee, if you have a towbar, socket and wiring, you can power up through there as well


Not sure you can though the 12N but if you have 13pin or 12S you can (and can charge the battery that way (I do)) as they have a perm live. Current: RR L322 2010
Past: RR L405 2017, RR L322 2012, 2008 & 2004, 2018 D5, 2016 Defender, 2011 D4, a few Disco2s, P38, RR Classic, couple of Disco1's, SIII SWB

Post #508455 12th Mar 2019 4:46pm
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