OK so what the minimum height a trolley jack should have to lift the RR safely.
Is something around 465mm enough?
Please confirm

I stick by my earlier advice

Alistair wrote:

I don't know how much height you need, but I'd use the factory jack & measure it for myself

The factory lack is but good enough to lift the car off the ground on a level surface - particularly if you're not removing a wheel.

I asked because i am thinking of buying a trolley jack to lift the RR and then put Axle stands.
Just dont like the factory jack and whole turning mechanism and plus i have deployable sidesteps, so was thinking of buying a trolley jack to lift it from the front or back and put axle stands.

thanks

this is the one i have https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj3lp-low-...olley-jack

its great for lifting the range rover, very solid and stable.
it goes high enough so you can lift it by the subframes and get the wheels off the ground in full droop.
you need a different attachment to lif tthe rear subframe though as the lifting pad doesnt fit between the exhaust pipes where the manual says to lift.

it is pretty heavy though so no good as a mobile jack. perfect for leaving in the workshop though. i got the low profile one too so i can use it on my other 'little' car

cheers thanks

I've gone for this kit - jack goes up to 520mm so should be plenty and over specced 6 tonne (each) axle stands

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj3-3-ton-...xle-stands

Arrived today and I can confirm the trolley jack does appear to weigh about 3 tonnes!!

can you lift the rear Subframe between the exhausts with that one? how big is the pad?

hahah yes they are bloody heavy but does give you absolutely confidence when lifting stuff!

Its no simple answer I am just sure I am never going to use the scissor jack again! BLOODY SCARY!


SGS wow what a find great kit and good value.

I 've ordered both a trolly jack that is up to the job and a bottle jack for emergency along with a tidy axle stand for safety on the roadside. Oh and always have a long bar with socket the chance of getting wheel nuts undone with the std kit is low.


The miles I do in Wales is the factor here I've lost three good tyres now to stone wall falls!

I also ditch the locking wheel nuts for standard ones. They will round and fail. I only just got one of mine off - it was well chewed up
Also check all remaining nuts have not swollen. Go round with a 22mm socket and check. They swell with age and the caps on them expand and then you can’t get the socket on  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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DrRob wrote:

Go round with a 22mm socket and check. They swell with age and the caps on them expand and then you can’t get the socket on...

Fraynizzle wrote:

can you lift the rear Subframe between the exhausts with that one? how big is the pad?

hahah yes they are bloody heavy but does give you absolutely confidence when lifting stuff!