hi all, can anyone help with 2006 EWS removal, i need to add a key to the immobiliser (EWS) system and just need some photos or step by step help to remove the EWS box, as i have heard its quite tricky on the Range rover, as opposed to very easy on BMW's!


Many thanks in advance!

found this using the forum search,

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic51683.html?highlight=ews


there are also more threads re this.. ... - .- -.




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Hi Ohwhatalad

If it's 2006 it's very likely not going to be BMW EWS -- rather the reworked Jaguar version -- in which case there is no point in removing the box as it won't help

Bushy Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

hi, okay thanks, its 2006 car but the remote is FIXED style, not a flip version which the later cars seemed to use which dont have EWS box?

It still has an EWS 'style' box, but cannot be programmed in the way BMW EWS were as per Stan's link above.

Do you have a working key? Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

hi yes customer has 1 working key,, it is the standard 3 button fixed key, looks same as older years which is why i thought was EWS.

i thought i only changed when it went into the FLIP key and the key igniton went high into center dash instead of near gearstick

No Sir, there was a crossover of units to the Jag variant before the key change.

See site sponsor LR Keys (that's me)

We can solve the problem for you  Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

great thanks! so was the box changed from EWS3 to EWS4 system , is that the JAG variant?

or was it called the SAWDOC system,, seen lots of confusing posts around this year of RR VOGUE!


Its the HU92 FIXED KEY that goes into the gear lever surround. But your right 2006 year is very late for that EWS3 bmw system. I will check your site too

Hi, I just removed mine
AND documented all the steps -

EWS Access
Centre Console Removal -
Disconnect the battery if you are paranoid enough

Step 1 Gear Knob
Pull up leather gaiter - 4 spring clips
Pull up Gear knob - 1 spring clip (tight), set assembly aside



Step 2 Gear Surround Panel/Top Face
Pull up gear surround panel - 8 spring clips
Separate 4 x wiring plugs, set aside



Step 3 Console Front/Upper Frame
Pull up small trim panel beneath console cubby latch, set aside
Undo 2 x torx 20 screws under trim panel
Undo 4 x torx 20 screws around gear lever
Push hand brake gaiter down from grip
Pull up hand brake grip, set aside
Pull up Console Frame - 4 spring clips
Separate 3 x wiring plugs (2 on cigar lighter)
Lift over handbrake and gear lever, set aside



Step 4 Main Console Frame and Cubby Box (single unit)
Rear end
Remove the tray from the bottom of the console cubby storage bin, set aside
Undo 2 x torx 30 screws from bottom of storage bin



Front end
Unclip the rear edge of footwell side pads (under dash) from each side of the centre console to reveal the lower front screws
Undo 2 x torx 30 screws from the lower front of the centre console, one from each side
Undo 2 x torx 20 screws from upper front bulkhead of Frame just inboard from -
1) the cigar lighter and 2) the ignition key barrel (may need a magnet to retrieve these from their deep recesses)
Pull whole unit backward ~20mm (best done from back seat)



NOT REQUIRED FOR ACCESS TO EWS -
Release 12V outlet from inside the storage bin
Unscrew ignition key barrel
Wiggle the casing around the gear and handbrake levers

Step 5 EWS -
The EWS computer is secured on the right hand side of the gear lever frame,
Lift the front of the Main Console Frame and place a ~90mm chock under it
Unscrew the top M8 hex head screw (why hex head when everything else is torx?)
Lift EWS out of bottom retainer, push up through centre of Console Frame
Separate wiring plug from EWS



Note that there are a few unsed/spare wiring plugs rattling around, but luckily they won't fit the plugs that need to be reconnected during re-assembly

Several plastic tabs and bosses were found to be brocken/snapped off. As most glues won't stick to the plastic (liquid nails will, sort of) I through drilled and fitted small bolts to the ones that seemed essential

I found a suitable large head #20 torx screw in my junk box to secure the EWS instead of the stupid M8 hex head

As they always say "Re-assembly is the reverse of these steps"

During re-assembly take care to pre-route the wiring before tightening any screws

 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia