Hi

Newby here with a few questions.
I’ve bought a 2004 4.4 v8 with BRC lpg recently. (165k miles)
And as expected the list of repairs are already long.

First priority is the gearbox. It started to hunt between gears and manual and sport mode, well wasn’t operational.
So I’ve done a oil and filter change which sorted the problem but high lighted another problem. The torque converter judders badly and I’ve got the engine management light on.
I was told by a transmission specialist that there’s a bearing in the A clutch housing that fails as well. When I asked him about any upgrades to improve reliability of the gearbox he couldn’t answer me he said it only requires a rebuild.
I would like to improve things when it needs repair/ replacing.
Does any of you know of anything that can be improve on this gearbox like a uprated torque converter ( maybe with a lower stall speed) better/stronger clutch packs and valve body improvements.

Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated

I've a sneaking suspicion that maybe RRPhil may be along sometime soon, and he's sure to help if you do some homework.

Search zf5hp24 on here and, no it's not near the bit where you put the coloured water. (see haylands post now it begins)

Seri0usly, you may well find most of what you need on the posts in that search and on one for T/Cs, but others will be along to help. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Thank you
Will have a look at that post

Hope it helps. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

You could start by having a 'mega flush' of the gearbox, this apparently flushes out 99% of the oil versus 60% of the by only doing a filter change.
The gearbox is a well known weak point, but, having said that I've had a 5sp & 6sp in my time & had little trouble. Torque converter replacement isn't a hideous price but what I would recommend is a 'new' torque converter & not a recon one.
As before, RRPhil is the gearbox wizard & im sure he'll give word she of wisdom shortly. 2012 Orkney Grey Westminster 4.4TDV8 with Ivory interior.........nice!
BMW R1200GS
Alfa Romeo Giulietta
Just one Montesa now, 349 White Wonder
Austin A40 Farina MK2
1975 Morris Marina 1.8TC

I’ve let it drained for 2 days. It took 8.4lts to refill the box. A
After some more reading here on the forum: I think that I played a big part in killing the torque converter as I’ve filled it with the wrong oil. I’ve ordered the service kit (oil/filter/gasket) from JGS4x4 and they promised me that it was the correct oil. The oil was red not the straw colour as described in the forum post. ( the oil I’ve drained out was lets say black with a red tint 😳)
The shift issues and not working in manual/sport was sorted after the service and is still changing smoothly. Apart from the torque converter which has the judders when pulling away and then above 50mph.
I’m planning on keeping the FFRR for a looooong time so it needs fixing properly.
Hence the reason why I’m looking for uprated parts to make it better/stronger. ( she will get 33”tyres later, I’m towing 3ton trailer regularly as well)

So far I’m unsuccessful in finding a upgrade torque converter nor clutch packs. ☹️

RRPhil is your man - I wouldn't waste time talking to anyone else

Hopefully this thread will explain why - https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic38676.html

It’s true. The post-2002 5HP24 does have a couple of vulnerabilities i.e. wear of the torque converter lock-up clutch friction plate, and failure of the B-clutch hub/C-clutch drum axial needle roller bearing. However, both these tend to fail at around the 100,000 mile mark and their replacement will then give you another 100,000 miles of use from the same transmission.

With the bearing, I did look at the possibility of modifying the design to fit an uprated bearing with a higher static & dynamic load capacity but there is so little room available that you risk weakening other components. Only vehicles that spend a lot of time in 1st, 2nd & 3rd gears tend to see failures because there is no relative speed across the bearing in 4th gear, and it is unloaded in 5th gear because the A-clutch is disengaged.

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This is why this forum is so good.

RRPhil - legend

Thank you for this information. That answered all my questions and put my mind to rest. So a new torque converter and a rebuild gearbox will see me back on the road again 😀

might need to do this on my car

==========
It’s true. The post-2002 5HP24 does have a couple of vulnerabilities i.e. wear of the torque converter lock-up clutch friction plate, and failure of the B-clutch hub/C-clutch drum axial needle roller bearing. However, both these tend to fail at around the 100,000 mile mark and their replacement will then give you another 100,000 miles of use from the same transmission.
=================

is the lock up clutch friction plate something that can be replaced in situ, or does the box have to come out ?

also, what are the tell tale signs of failure of the B-Clutch hub ?
do any codes pop up when scanning with IIDtool or other scanners to alert you to 5HP24 problems like this ?

The transmission has to be removed from the vehicle to access the torque converter, but it isn’t necessary to dismantle the transmission, so no specialist knowledge of automatic transmissions is required. Any competent mechanic could do this bit.



However, replacing the torque converter lock-up clutch friction plate is a highly specialised job which involves first splitting the converter apart by turning off the weld on a lathe.

thanks Phil - really appreciate the info - top man !