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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > 1/0 Gauge Wire From Battery to Rear on 2011 Range Rover
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GraemeS



Member Since: 07 Mar 2015
Location: Wagga area
Posts: 2301

Australia 2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Bournville

I did mine the same with the addition of a 250A resettable circuit breaker in parallel with the VSR using 200A cable so that the 2 batteries can be temporarily coupled if the primary is too flat to start the engine. The earth for the 2nd battery is also 200A rated.

Post #549061 1st Apr 2020 10:51am
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Roi354



Member Since: 06 Feb 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 32

United Kingdom 2005 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Buckingham Blue

Thanks both.
With the exchange rate as it is currently, the Traxide kit isn't going to cost the earth to buy from the UK.
A decent leisure battery on the other hand...

Post #549062 1st Apr 2020 10:58am
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wayneg



Member Since: 05 Jun 2013
Location: South Fremantle, Australia ( ex London )
Posts: 775

Australia 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Java Black

GraemeS wrote:
I did mine the same with the addition of a 250A resettable circuit breaker in parallel with the VSR using 200A cable so that the 2 batteries can be temporarily coupled if the primary is too flat to start the engine. The earth for the 2nd battery is also 200A rated.

Absolutely agree, if you go the DIY route fit resettable fuses, I fitted 100amp which is more than enough for my needs, a fridge freezer, and camping lights. I dont plan on starting the car with the 2nd battery

Click image to enlarge

[/url] 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Post #549066 1st Apr 2020 11:08am
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Jasdip



Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 25

2011 Range Rover Supercharged 5.0 SC V8 Santorini Black

wayneg wrote:
Am I missing something here, there is a thick cable running from the battery direct to the fuse box in the rear RHS, why not take a feed from there? I believe like me all those with a second battery make connections from here.


The installer originally used that same rear fuse box to power my system originally; however, I was getting issues with the truck jerking as I was accelerating and the bass hit hard. When checking the voltage at that rear fuse box under heavy load, it was dropping to under 12v. I was advised to run a power wire directly to the battery to avoid starving that fuse box of power under heavy load. The idea was that crucial electronics for the truck are running from that fuse box and the drop in voltage may have been causing the jerking and RPM issues.

One of the full thread about it is here:

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/veh...221/page-4

Post #549117 1st Apr 2020 9:13pm
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