I just topped up my AGM battery in the 5.0 S/C with my CTEK 7 series. Just connect to the positive and then find somewhere for the negative, and connect to the charger. Easy and same as any other car.

The CTEK are great, I've managed to restore and recondition some old batteries and bring life back into them.

I have had it on charge for days now and it finally starts getting a decent voltage in the battery. I have a cheap cigarette socket USB charger with voltage indicator and it is finally well into the 12 volt region. Probably a good thing the Optimate takes its time to charge it.

No playing kid in it for a few days either so that may explain why it finally charged  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

I have some reservations about charging a connected battery.......regularly.
Why?
Your alternator is designed to direct current towards the battery, diodes within it allow current to travel in one direction only towards the battery.
Then there is the voltage regulator stage.
The higher quality chargers claim to "not damage" these components, this may well be true of the "trickle" chargers.
Even a 5amp charger generates a considerable amount of current and thus heat.
If you are using anything like a 10amp or more charger I would be even more cautious
You can avoid this by putting an isolator on your negative battery post.
From experience L322 alternators are prone to failure at the best of times and pretty expensive units

Reading RR P38's post made me think about fitting an isolator on my negative battery post, which would effectively allow for the disconnecting of the battery at the turn of a knob.

But I seem to remember that re-connecting the battery (via the isolator) on a 2011 MY L322 could involve lots of "re-setting" things like the sunroof, steering etc. Is that correct? 2010 Range Rover TDV8 Baltic Blue Autobiography (2011 MY) - SOLD
1960 Land Rover SII SWB SW
2020 BMW R1250 RT LE
2021 Triton ST-125 (Monkey Bike)

Last edited by TJRL on 16th Apr 2020 12:21pm. Edited 1 time in total

My 2003 L322 the only thing I have to reset is the steering angle everything else fires up as normal a quick lock to lock and your done.

On my 2003 TD6 its the steering angle, windows and sunroof and the date and time.

Also lose trip milage and mpg etc.

this one looks nice n neat n tidy


https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/battery-ter...ation.html

I use this exact system......without the fuse though, if I want to charge or isolate the battery two turns on then Green knob and its isolated, this does the same but seems to be some form of anti theft arrangement

The instruction to remove the battery from the vehicle is waffle used to hide some simple physics.

The operational vibration, heat and the 'skill' of mechanics doing electrical work all contribute to loose, bad, corroded and omitted junctions throughout vehicle electrical system. The 100 amp alternator in the Range Rover often can overcome these and properly charge the battery. A 3 amp charger clipped over a loose battery terminal won't notice the 3-4 volts lost in the bad connections so when it 'sees' that the battery is at 13.5V it is actually just at ~11V. But if the battery is away from the vehicle and the charger is clipped directly to it then 13.5V will be delivered.

The remote jump start studs on the body work in front of the battery compartment are NOT suitable for trickle charging. High end, modern chargers *may* use smarter algorithms to sample the real voltage, but they will not get the 'real' voltage if there is even a single bad or slightly loose joint anywhere between the charger clips and the battery.

I personally don't remove the battery, but I always test the terminal connections (give them a twist) before clipping my smart charger leads directly onto the terminals ON THE BATTERY.

This is old knowledge, any auto electrician or competent mechanic will always tell you to connect a charger directly to the battery. Connected to terminals on the battery that you know are tight is next best, and in reality is just fine. Connected to jump start points that rely on jointed cables, earth straps and conduction through the body work WILL introduce voltage drops. As for connecting through the tow plug ...

bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia