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uzp315



Member Since: 19 Nov 2017

Posts: 428

Any one tried a later model wiper motor on an older car?

Any one tried a later model wiper motor on an older car?

Newer part number: LR010920

Older part number DKD000030

They look pretty similar and if there is no difference in the tail gate, then I imagine these will fit.

Post #579299 11th Jan 2021 1:59pm
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uzp315



Member Since: 19 Nov 2017

Posts: 428

I've got one on order from local main dealer and will go and have a look tomorrow and report back.

Securing bolts look different, but the rest looks like it might be compatible.

Mark

Post #579304 11th Jan 2021 2:58pm
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uzp315



Member Since: 19 Nov 2017

Posts: 428

This is continued here:
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic58149.html

If i get it to work properly I will write it all up fully with photos.

Post #580197 18th Jan 2021 8:12am
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Pawl



Member Since: 08 Nov 2017
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 666

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Cairns Blue

The CaNbus system is different on later cars. I know because the later control box for deplorable side steps won't work on earlier cars (eg pre 2009 ish.
Is the rear wiper controlled via CANbus?
If yes, it probably won't work at all. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

Post #580207 18th Jan 2021 10:38am
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uzp315



Member Since: 19 Nov 2017

Posts: 428

Hi Pawl,
thanks for your reply.

The wiper motor consists of mechanical parts and electrical parts.

The main thread for this discussion is the link above ^^^

For clarity. I removed the electrical components and replaced them with the electrical components from the earlier motor. The mechanical parts are identical so this should work. However, if you read the main thread you will see it is not so straight forward and that I am having a few difficulties with it.

However, the canbus should not affect this. The canbus is an electronics system and all the electronic components on the new "Frankenmotor" are from the original motor and therefore have been proven over many years to work with my car.

Cheers
Mark

Post #580209 18th Jan 2021 10:45am
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Pawl



Member Since: 08 Nov 2017
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 666

England 2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Cairns Blue

Mark,

Aaah, sorry. I'd been skim reading the original post about your frankenmotor creation & not noticed that.

Good luck !

Paul Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

Post #580214 18th Jan 2021 11:19am
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uzp315



Member Since: 19 Nov 2017

Posts: 428

Cheers. I need it Smile

Post #580215 18th Jan 2021 11:21am
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uzp315



Member Since: 19 Nov 2017

Posts: 428

Finally got it working. In a nutshell:

1) 2007 part no longer available. DKD000030. Second hand parts are doomed to fail (i had two 2nd hand replacements).
2) I could not get the replacement gears on ebay for £5, to work.
3) Bought a new 2010 motor LR010920 and set about building a working option.

Instructions. (see other posts/wiki/youtube for removal of motor.



Once you have the old motor and the new one.

1) Open up both units.
2) Remove all parts from both units - cogs, spindle..
3) Remove control wire from motor component using a soldering iron on the old and new.
4) Unclip the disconnected control units (black plastic box) from both.
5) Remove motor from both the wiper units housing (two torx bolts hold it in place).
6) Unclip the brass plate from the back of the new white cog.
7) Cut the old magnet sensor of the back of the old cog. Note the rough diameter of this circular magnet in it's plastic housing.
Cool Drill a small recess to seat the old magnet in the back of the new cog in exactly the same place that your removed the magnet from the old cog. This is to help hold the old magnet on the new cog.
9) Use the solder iron to melt some plastic from the old cog and use that like glue to bond in the plastic housing around the old magnet to the new cog.
10) The new metal housing that holds the motor will have a hole in it where the sensors/brushes on the new unit go. This is no good. You need to use one side of the old housing without the sensor hole so that no magnetic interference is created by the magnet.
11) Re-attach the new motor to the old housing with the two torx bolts.
12) Line up worm gears and cog in the unit ensuring the teeth mesh correctly. I also had to clean up the spindle on the old housing to allow the cog to turn freely.
13) Remove the white plastic collar from the new spindle so that is can sit correctly (flat, not proud) inside the unit. If the spindle doesn't go all the way in then the two sides of the housing will not reassemble. This is a clue to check the spindle for the collar and remove it.
14) Get the black plastic stopper from the old spindle and add that to the new spindle. Line it up correctly.
15) Reinsert the spindle and attached to the white gear. (this needs to be lined up in a way that as soon as the white gear turns, the spindle rotates in the correct direction.
16) Reassemble.
17) Test.

I also checked fuses and "intermittent wiper" relays behind the battery on the bulkhead - things to consider.

I have tested this for a while now and having now dismantled and rebuilt this thing nearly 40 times I am of course expecting it to fail again any moment, but for now it works properly, does intermittent and wash wipe again. A long drive in the rain will determine if it is a 100% success.

The biggest weakness might be how long the magnet stays in place. If that fails, I will just have another go at fixing it to the cog.

In hindsight, I wonder if the £5 replacement cog from ebay would have worked if I had thought to pack it with washers to that it sat a little higher and meshed with the worm gear better. However, as it stands, all the moving parts in my rear wiper unit are now new so it should last another 10 years before this happens again.

I cannot berate Land Rover enough for all the trouble this unit has caused, especially the fact that we cannot get parts for a 13 year old car that cost £90k; this is beyond my comprehension. Had I been able to replace this unit with a new one it would have been simple, quick and saved me many many many many days working on this, the previous three motors and then having to make a working Frankenmotor out of all of them. Someone should punch Land Rover repeatedly until they agree to re-instate this part. Unforgivable in my book, but the sad truth of it is that anyone who makes decisions in that company is so far removed from the people who hear the tales of woe from customers.

I would shout "**NKERS" from the rooftops of LRHQ if I could.

Post #580763 22nd Jan 2021 4:18pm
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DrRob



Member Since: 16 Apr 2015
Location: Petersfield, Hampshire
Posts: 4227

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Buckingham Blue

Bow down Thumbs Up 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Post #580766 22nd Jan 2021 4:30pm
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uzp315



Member Since: 19 Nov 2017

Posts: 428

^^ Yes!

Post #580767 22nd Jan 2021 4:48pm
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Jayk69



Member Since: 08 Feb 2018
Location: Daventry
Posts: 601

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Barolo Black

top job there love a bit of Frankenstein engineering 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

Post #580776 22nd Jan 2021 6:01pm
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uzp315



Member Since: 19 Nov 2017

Posts: 428

Thumbs Up

Post #580777 22nd Jan 2021 6:07pm
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