Hi all.
I've recently realised I've got some binding going on on the driver-side rear brake. Last weekend I took the caliper off, gave everything a really good clean and got rid of the considerable rust, and put it all back together.

Initially it seemed better, but it isn't.

I didn't go as far as to take the 'slide pins' out (no idea what they're called...), nor the piston. I just removed the two halves of caliper, pads, stainless shims.

Would I be likely to benefit from a further strip down or am I wasting my time....?
Still not 100% sure whether it might be the parking brake...

If the recommendation is just to replace... any top tips on which bits I should be replacing / keeping?
And who sells brake parts at a good price!??

Thanks in advance!

You need to take the slide pins out and make sure they are free. Sticking slide pins are usually the cause of overheating. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue - SOLD
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT-Sold

Thanks Weegie
Are they pretty straightforward to get out? And I read somewhere on here about special lubricant for reassembly (other than copper slip), but it wasn't totally clear what I should be searching for - any tips?

Many thanks again.

Its worth also checking piston condition too if you've got potentially binding brakes.

The quick test is to use a big screwdriver into the gap at the top of the caliper housing & slowly prize the outer pad away from the disc, forcing the caliper piston inwards. If it doesn't move, you've probably got a siezed piston or slide pins. If it moves. but with a lot of effort required, the pins or pins are likely to be partially jammed.
Ideally, the piston should move back smoothly, but with some resistance.

A more detailed piston check :
One caliper at a time, with brake pads out & the caliper connected, but dismounted from the disc, have a helper push the brake pedal down to ease the brake caliper piston out approx 10mm, so that you can push the piston boot back & check the condition of the piston chrome .Don't overdo it or the piston will come right out !
Wipe any surface rust / discolouration off with a clean dry cloth & check the chrome. If you've got rust, you've got a problem that either requires new pistons or calipers.
Push the pistons back into the housing carefully with either a g clamp or suitable size piece of wood - making sure you push it in squarely to prevent it jamming Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 151,000 miles & now sold
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

For what they cost l would just replace both rear callipers.

Good advice

This is exactly what I did plus new brake caliper carriers.

All useful info - thanks gents.

I guess I could do with pricing them up. Any recommendations for the best places to buy from? I do most of my shopping on Amazon, but I don't think I'd do very well on there for these bits!!

One of the site sponsors , Euro car parts, there quite a few specialist LR prts suppliers, or like me sometimes a small family independent motor spares shop. I have not bought original LR brake parts, but always use makers that guarantee the same or higher quality.

Lots of people on this site hold the site sponsors in high regard for their knowledge and help.

I never use Amazon, ever, as an exercise, over a few months every time I bought car bits on the net - most from specialist suppliers, I then checked the amazon price and ifor over 95% of the purchases, amazon was the most expensive for the same branded item..

I got my brake parts from Duckworths (site sponsor), together with the 2 rear flexable pipes.

get a pair new on ebay for £75. many aftermarket ones are steel but they work fine 2010 VSE [Roger]

Always wrote:

All useful info - thanks gents.

I guess I could do with pricing them up. Any recommendations for the best places to buy from? I do most of my shopping on Amazon, but I don't think I'd do very well on there for these bits!!

Advanced Factors - top quality parts and service

Yes the callipers may be fubar but when doing the cleaning did you have the carriers off. The bit where the pad sits rusts and needs a good wire brushing when reassembling. Much easier to do it with the calliper carriers off the car.

Swapping the callipers isn’t a hard job, and if you have a friend to help with bleeding it’s even easier, but it won’t fix the problem if the issue lies in the carrier.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Thanks gents.
I've had everything to bits again - and checked both sides properly this time. I've discovered that the driver's side caliper piston is seized solid, the the carrier and pins are moving beautifully... and the passenger side is exactly the opposite - seized pins but ok caliper piston!

I've managed to get the pins out and free everything up but I suspect moisture will get behind the seals again and the problem will return, so I'm planning to replace 1x carrier and pins for passenger side and 1x caliper and piston for the driver's side.

I'm presuming the logic about 'do an axle set' for brakes only applies to the friction parts?

If the carrier holes for the slide pins are not worn, then you can get a new carrier pin set with all parts needed, cheap and easy to do, no need to renew the carrier itself.

As for the carrier, as above always remove to work bench, only two bolts. I use a wire brush then a fine file to lightly clean any rust off the landing faces then once the ( Cleaned ) stainless clips are re-fitted, brake pads are easy to fit.

As for the expression 'do an axle set' each to their own, but myself I always strip both sides down at the same time, and clean up EVERYTHING if you have a problem with one side, then murphy's law says the other side will follow suit fairly soon.
That way you carry out preventative maintenance and have some peace of mind.

OP here.
Ok. All finished. For now at least...!

My only snag was that the new carrier I ordered for one side didn't fit at all (I'm presuming I somehow managed to order incorrectly rather than anything else).

Because of the incorrect carrier issue, I removed and thoroughly cleaned the slide pins and holes on the seized carrier with brake cleaner. They went from seized (with gunk) to sliding beautifully. I used the special non-metallic high temp lubricant for the pins and rubber boot seatings on reassembly.

All muck and rust thoroughly cleaned off on the bench (both sides). I used my Dremel for the machined faces to get a good clean finish.

All put back together, the only new part being one caliper (plus the lubricant).

I genuinely don't get why some folks say to replace both sides for things like calipers if you're prepared to replace ad-hoc when needed. I get it for friction components which *should* wear at the same rate, but where does one stop if replacing mechanical components on an axle... if you crack a rim (for example), you wouldn't replace both wheels on an axle...