Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > Discs and pads |
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Vogue Owner Member Since: 12 Jun 2008 Location: Braintree Posts: 234 |
After my success with the park sensors I'm gonna tackle the discs and pads next.
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3rd Apr 2011 4:11pm |
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dan_uk_1984 Member Since: 12 Nov 2008 Location: Bude, Cornwall Posts: 4014 |
I couldnt get my discs off so in the end I went to a garage. If you're doing rear it may be worth doing the handbrake shoes too if you HB isn't perfect?
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3rd Apr 2011 4:29pm |
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Richcl Member Since: 23 Sep 2010 Location: Tewkesbury, Glos Posts: 1011 |
Get yourself some copper grease and use it when you reassemble. Backs of pads and the disc to hub and hub faces to wheel, then you won't have any trouble the next time you change discs + pads
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3rd Apr 2011 4:32pm |
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dan_uk_1984 Member Since: 12 Nov 2008 Location: Bude, Cornwall Posts: 4014 |
Don't apply to the wheel mating face! You can apply around the chamfer, but not on the face itself. The wheel is clamped onto this face and its the clamping force that holds the wheel on. If it can slide the bolts can sheer off as they are not designed to deal with any force other than clamping. |
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3rd Apr 2011 4:36pm |
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Richcl Member Since: 23 Sep 2010 Location: Tewkesbury, Glos Posts: 1011 |
Heard it all before...... But when you have to resort to sledge hammer/scaffold poles to get wheels off, you'll be wishing you had....
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3rd Apr 2011 4:40pm |
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hoppy_70 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Peoples Republic of Mancunia! Posts: 830 |
Top tip!
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3rd Apr 2011 6:01pm |
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SteveMFr Site Sponsor Member Since: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Strasbourg, France Posts: 1641 |
And I'm sure that will have been a professional mechanic, then, and not just some DIYer. Dan is right. there is enough info avail from all sorts of sources on this. The hub to disc faces should not be lubricated and the hub (disc or rotor hat, actually) face to wheel should not either. The spigots can be - and that usually makes all the difference in the world. And if the wheels weren't only removed after 5 years everything would be fine too. RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr, P38, and 2 L322s (wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too) |
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3rd Apr 2011 6:29pm |
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RRVSE Member Since: 18 Apr 2009 Location: Bury Posts: 597 |
I'm always surprised that they haven't developed some sort of ultra thin protector that sits between the alloy wheel and the hub to prevent them 'bonding'. For arguements sake some sort of rigid card like material that is say impregnated with a water resistant chemical to stop it breaking down. The worst yuo would get then is some 'paper' stuck on the hub and alloy. I thought of it once when I had to change a wheel and it put up one hell of a fight when O tried to get it off the hub! Steve
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11th Apr 2011 1:27am |
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Richcl Member Since: 23 Sep 2010 Location: Tewkesbury, Glos Posts: 1011 |
I think you are getting confused with not applying grease to wheel nuts, greasing these will affect the torque applied, that may lead to the studs shearing, with obvious consequences....... 5 wheel nuts torqued to 103lb ft (that's a lot of clamping force) ensure that their is no movement of wheel to hub, greased or not. |
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11th Apr 2011 2:08am |
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