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Paulo_G



Member Since: 16 Jan 2022
Location: Stratford on Avon
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 
Help needed - big coolant leak

Hi all,

Picked up a 2003 RR 4.4 V8 today, made it most of the 30 miles home then got a check coolant level message followed by a rise in coolant temperature. Stopped as soon as I could, let the car cool and started filling it with water (6 pack of big Evian bottles as I had little choice). Got a few litres, letting it settle a big after each bottle, then noticed a lot of water pouring out onto the floor at the front and centre of the engine. Nursed it the final 5 miles home, engine had cooled and figured I’d got at least some water in the system still. Got a friend coming round later to help diagnose, but wondered if there is anything common that goes in this area to target. First thought is pipework around the water pump. Rate at which is was coming out would suggest a split pipe rather than a leaky gasket, so hoping it’s that and therefore relatively simple to resolve!

Any thoughts/suggestions welcomed!

Thanks all,

Paul

Post #620969 22nd Jan 2022 6:04pm
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Bl4ckD0g



Member Since: 16 Feb 2020
Location: 127.0.0.1
Posts: 1322

Netherlands 2010 Range Rover Autobiography 5.0 SC V8 Santorini Black

It’s a 2003 car, I’d order a full set of replacement hoses and just replace them all. They don’t cost much. When the system goes under pressure it will just find the next weakest point. Also if you don’t know when the waterpump was last done i would change that and the thermostat as well. Buy proper sets including the o rings etc.

I guess you bought private sold as seen?

Post #620972 22nd Jan 2022 6:14pm
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Paulo_G



Member Since: 16 Jan 2022
Location: Stratford on Avon
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 

I’ll do that, get some new pipes on order. Not sure when the water pump was changed but there’s tons of history with the car so will go through that and find out. Problem is I’ll need to get to work on Monday, so very much hoping I can find the problem and implement a temporary repair to get me through.

And yes, private sale, sold as seen. That said, I had taken it for a test drive last weekend, with engine up to temperature, and the seller has used it through the week too.

Post #620977 22nd Jan 2022 6:32pm
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Bl4ckD0g



Member Since: 16 Feb 2020
Location: 127.0.0.1
Posts: 1322

Netherlands 2010 Range Rover Autobiography 5.0 SC V8 Santorini Black

Ouch that might be a challenge to get the parts tomorrow for a decent price and quality. I’m no fan of what euro car parts would carry. Good luck.

Post #620989 22nd Jan 2022 7:40pm
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Paulo_G



Member Since: 16 Jan 2022
Location: Stratford on Avon
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 

So, done some investigation work this evening with a mate by torchlight, turns out water is gushing down the block from the water pump. So water pump and gasket replacement it is then. Highly doubt its something the seller could have covered up, it gushes out from a cold start, so would definitely have noticed when I took it for a test drive.

I plan to do the replacement myself, what should I expect in terms of how long the job should take, what could possibly go wrong etc.?

Post #621015 22nd Jan 2022 11:30pm
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vs322



Member Since: 08 Apr 2020
Location: Athens
Posts: 531

Greece 2004 Range Rover HSE 4.4 V8 Java Black

To replace the water pump you'll need to create some access space first. Remove the air filter duct, viscous fan (nut unscrews clockwise as you look towards the engine) and fan shroud. I would absolutely change the thermostat, as well as the cross over pipe o-rings that connect to the pump.
Make sure you use the same type of coolant to refill and observe the proper system bleeding procedure. Even when followed to the letter, expect having g to top up e few ml of coolant on the next heat cycle...
All in all the water pump + stat replacement should be about 2 to 3 hours all going well...


If budget permits, consider the following:

-Replace valley pan
-Replace heater hoses (2x short rubber tubes at the back) connecting to the firewall.
-Cross over water pump pipes* and associated o-rings, both ends.
*Thick and thin tube might or might not show corrosion at their ends.Replace if they do.
-Replace intake manifold seals.
-Inspect PCV and oil fumes separator
-Inspect ALL small vacuum tubes running from PCV on top of the inlet manifold to the various valves and components.

These look like and I admit may indeed be much but, you'll sooner or later have to do them.
Had I known, I would have saved myself much trouble, time and money.

Enjoy the car Thumbs Up

Post #621118 23rd Jan 2022 6:23pm
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Dolphinboy



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bristol
Posts: 3063

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Atacama Sand

Make sure you get the best quality or OEM pump you can. I got an American Parts or some such rubbish which dumped me on New Years eve 300 miles from home! went for a Hella next and much better.

Post #621125 23rd Jan 2022 7:18pm
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