I have now removed the rear arch liner and the cill cover on the nearside.
The rust is a lot better than some have posted on this forum but still bad.
Would love to show you but uploading photos is not working at the moment.
I have treated light surface corrosion in the wheel arch, Hydrate 80, high zinc primer and finished with stonechip.
I have ordered a rear arch repair panel but will be cutting that down (cost was £63 on eBay). I need about 150mm at the leading edge and around 100mm at the trailing edge. So a nice easy repair.
However under the cill there is severe perforation and needs a lot of grinding out. However it's still an easy repair as it just needs a piece of flat steel with a simple 90 bend where it is spot welded to the inner cill, between the spot welds are the drain channels.
When removing the side steps three of the 5mm screws sheared so these will need drilling out, hopefully an extractor will sort that. I have ordered a 90 degree air drill as space is a bit tight. What LR engineer thought 5mm screws would do the job!
The side steps are in a shocking state, looking at the paint I am surprised they have lasted this long, a very thin coat of paint on bare steel, no corrosion protection at all.
I've had a quote for £150 to blast and powder coat them so I will be doing those myself!
PS I found that removing the arch liners to be very easy, some have said that it can be tricky. Now my liners are different to the manual. There are two screws and two plastic scrivits plus one stud at the highest point of the arch, I then used a plastic trim removal tool to lift the liner against the arch lip and then ran a trim tool down the arch either side of the stud and the arch fell out. Hope that helps others.
PS2 I used loads of PlusGas on the side step screws to no avail. Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003
Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours