This might sound counter-intuitive, have you tried it with the EGR blanks removed?

ETA - it's a basic check, but what is the supply voltage at the sensors? it should be within 4.75 - 5.25VDC although personally I'd investigate if it was outside of 4.85 - 5.15VDC. I'd also look at all the pressure & temperature sensor values, with the engine not running and ignition on, all pressure values should be broadly the same - i.e. atmospheric pressure, temperature values should also be close to ambient, beware of false positives on IAT as they are hot film and will read high if there is no air being drawn across them, so initial key-on values will be correct, after a few minutes, expect them to have climbed close to 30deg. C.

Last edited by Phoenix on 23rd Nov 2022 11:28pm. Edited 1 time in total

The fault was the there before and after the blank

At what point were they blanked? have you tried removing them since the LR software was reapplied? there's a lot of balls in the air here....

No not removed since LR software was reapplied.

The LR tech said all readings were correct when they checked after software flash.

What was the reason the vacuum valve was replaced? was there a defect or just a 'try this' type of reasoning? I'm just wondering if there was a defect, if it's worth checking again.

With regard to the EGR's, I'm wondering if the engine management is detecting (or rather not detecting) no expected change in charge air temperature when it expects the EGR to be open and is self-limiting boost for engine protection.

RRR4J wrote:

The LR tech said all readings were correct when they checked after software flash.

Hi, the vacuum solenoid was easily accessible so it was just a try it out.

I will try and see if I can use my mobile obd app to read the values myself rather than the tech. I'll get back to you on that one.

Not so sure about EGR, because the fault was there when there were not deleted and still there after blanking and deleting.

Really appreciate your input. Thanks

When I say 'common sense' checks, I mean are the live values plausible? for example boost pressure should be close to ambient pressure with the key on, engine off, if ambient is 1000kpa and the boost pressure is reading 1005kpa, that's fine, if it's reading 1050kpa (or 980kpa), then clearly there's an issue. the same goes for temperature, although a warm engine will obviously have different temperatures in the charge air path to ambient, it's mainly to make sure the readings make sense for the conditions.