I am not sure, it was from before I owned it. It runs at 14.7v when on, what is normal when engine isn’t on? Mine was sitting at 12.2 when I checked yesterday, which seems a bit low but the delay in started puzzled me a bit, rather than trying to turn over.

Batteries are not expensive so if it's of unknown age maybe best to replace it.- plenty of info on here of how-to and what type. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Cheers, I think that would be a good idea.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/019-agm/ 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

jaguar3 wrote:

Yeah, not bad. Only thing need 230V near parking place. I have it.

I mean would be good if:
...
3) Blower start running 10min later, not right away.

But unfortunately its not possible to manage anyhow.

Okay thank you.

Well, maybe its even possible somehow, but very hard. Even if replace Webasto LR ECU with analog one. Analog ECU can control vehicle fan via analog signal (+12V on pin 4) after coolant has reached a temperature of 30°.
Its not impossible to activate the fan manualy by connecting some wires and relays, but the problem is in climate flaps. In stand-by mode all flaps are closed and there is no point to activate the fan, it will not able to blow any air anywhere.
When I build my system I think about option to open one flap (on legs) manually, just disconnect it from motor. And leave it in open position forever.
But its serious intervention and rebuild of original system. So I was not happy with that and choice the easier way by installing 230V heater.

I just tried to pair my T91 remote today, is there any indication that it has been done correctly or not?

I am not sure if it is too warm to start the FBH, but I was expecting the 'auto' light to appear when I pressed on.

I removed the power to the remote unit for 30 seconds, plugged in, and held the off button at which point it flashes 4 times.

Hi, oddly people think the remote it's for the FBH heater, it isn't. The remote is for the climate control.

If the ambient temp is below about 10'C (thinks) it will kick in the FBH as long as the battery is good and there's sufficient fuel. If it's above that, it'll try to circulate warm air if there is any residual heat left in the engine.

If there's not not then it will just evacuate the internal air so if you use in the summer and turn the temp dials to minimum, then it can drag all that hot air out of the car and suck in some new hot air.

You are correct though, if it has triggered then you should see the orange light in the centre switch flashing slowly, it'll run for approx 20 minutes.

If it's not, then either the remotes, not sending, the receivers not receiving or not processing it, you need to hold the remote on button down for a couple of seconds mind. Pairing could have gone of course. If you don't get the green light on the remote when you press then likely the battery is flat.

Andy Fuji White 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westmiinster

Thanks Andy, so the only way to check if pairing was correct is to see if it initiates the FBH?

Hi, I don't know that there is actually a method for checking the pairing because that would entail getting into the boxes and checking the respective codes align.

The easiest thing to confirm that is simply to pop in a new battery and redo the pairing as below:

There is also a Webasto User Guide in the WIKI section under COOLING & CLIMATE

Andy



To pair the remote control to your receiver you’ll need to access the receiver in the boot of the car to do the pairing so clear out the boot right side and remove the access panel before you start..

Before you begin, you’ll need to have at least a quarter tank of fuel and a fully charged battery, (the system will not initiate if either is low).

The below is a combination of what I’ve got from Land Rover and my own experience and only covers the pairing of the remote control, it assumes your “timed climate system” is otherwise working as it should.

Turn on the car ignition and leave it on.

At the receiver in the boot, remove the connector that carries the power, i.e. it’s a 4 or 5 pin flat connector, but be careful as this is delicate, don’t tug the wires.

Once removed this will delete any pairing of any earlier remote controls the car may have had in the past..

Wait approx. 10 seconds and refit the connector to the receiver.

On the heater remote, hold the right, “Off” button down for 5 seconds, LED should flicker, but don’t panic if it doesn’t.

That should be that remote now paired to the receiver.

Close the boot and jump in the driver’s seat, ensure all the doors closed.

Turn off the ignition, wait for 5 seconds, turn it back on again, hopefully that has now saved the pairing to the system.

Set the centre console left main AC switch to “On” and the centre knob AC main switch to “auto” i.e. both orange LEDs on in the centre button.

Turn off the ignition, stay inside and lock the car with the normal key remote. (not the locking switch in the car).

Once the car is completely dead, say after 30 seconds hold down the heater remote “On” key for 3 to 5 seconds, the LED on the remote should go green.

The round LED on the main AC panel centre knob should now begin to flash slowly and you should hear a small fan running in the background, if so, press “Off” on the remote and skip next step as it’s working fine.

If it didn’t work, go back to step 1, it usually fails on the 1st attempt in my experience.

If it worked, exit the car, lock it and try the remote “On” step from say 10 feet away, then approach the car, you should see the orange LED on the centre console flashing through the window and hear the heater fan running.

If all good then you’re done, the remote usually works up to about 20 feet away. Fuji White 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westmiinster

Thanks Andy, great information I did not do the stuff with the ignition... I will give this another crack!