Hello,

New member here. I recently got the RR bug and now totally ok with introducing range anxiety and fear of big repair bills in my life.
My budget is what I am able to sell my BMW for, that means probably somewhere at cheaper end of the spectrum which. This unfortunately rules out cars with dealer warranties. I want to minimize the risk to buy a lemon so I am planning a PPI from an indy specialist when I find the right car.
My question is how to find the perfect car? There are many buyer guides of general character that just scratches the surface. But I want something deeper, more hands on. A week ago I watched a really good youtube video with step-by-step instructions how to properly inspect and test drive a L322 with only measuring tape and ODB2 tool at your disposal. I thought that many of these steps probably can be replicated for L405. Now I am unable to find that vid

Are you aware of any pre-purchase screening guide for L405?

Cheers from Prague

It would be very difficult to give any car a thorough going-over in the 30 minutes to 1 hour you might be viewing one, and quite frankly, you'd anyone off if you start getting a tape measure or a screwdriver out.

I am now a dealer and would definitely say the old adages apply:
- low owners
- main dealer history
- stacks of other history
- 2 keys
- last owner for many years
- brand of tyres

I'd also add that you should absolutely expect repair bills (and significant ones) at the lower end of the spectrum. Sudden failure of parts is very different to gradual deterioration, which any vehicle you look at would suffer from.

Being able to perform services and transmission services plus diff/transfer box services will help keep the maintenance costs down. You might also want to consider the SDV8 - it will cost you more to buy, but when looked after appropriately, it will look after you. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

I'd recommend taking and OBD code reader with you as that will pick up things that won't be noticeable on a test drive. An example being I bought a car with a broken FBH and the code reader tells me the aux pump has failed.

As a private seller I wouldn't let a stranger plug anything into my car. We've all seen stories of scum trying to create imaginary faults to try and get a half price car, don't make it easy by giving them access to the ECU.

There could possibly be a question to ask if someone plugged in their laptop but no one could reasonably say no to a code reader. Without checking the current and historical codes is akin to buying a house without having a qualified surveyor check it over first.

I’d show a buyer the gap iid read out pre test drive. Then clear them and then show them it post test drive. I wouldn’t let anyone plug their kit into my car. If they played up about it then I’d politely ask them to “do one” 😂 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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If serious, arrange a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) with the seller, and pay for it. If the seller won’t do it, walk away. If it comes back clean, buy it. If it comes back with issues, negotiate them out of the purchase price.

I bought my 2013 RR with a JLR PPI. They still missed a few small things. So did I when I finalized the paperwork.

About 20 years ago I was looking at a Golf GTI VR6. Paid for a PPI. Came back with low compression on two cyclinders and coolant in the oil. Dodged a head gasket job. The car drove fine with no concerns. Once the PPI came back, the seller admitted he knew. $300 saved me $3-5000. Dan. 🇨🇦 2013 L405 5.0 SCV8

Hi remote-trash,

Do you have a link to the "really good youtube video with step-by-step instructions how to properly inspect and test drive a L322 with only measuring tape and ODB2 tool"? It sounds very useful!

Thanks!

I managed a 4k discount on my RR by plugging in a code reader (autel 808BT) in the presence of the owner and the faults list was huge as it hadnt been cleared in years. Then found water in the boot and an oil leak, no history really but it had a valid new test.

I see a lot of people say get low owners and history but that is not always possible in other countries outside of the UK. In Ireland they only sell a fraction of these cars per year compared to the UK and now since brexit the import market is a non runner. So sometimes you have to take a punt. That is risky but you have to live a little too.

If I could this is what I would do:

-put car into high mode on suspension, put jack stands under and look for oil leaks
-when going for a test drive get a partner/friend or owner to drive the car past you a few time, listen for noise and look for smoke
-use a code reader or get owner to use there's as suggested above
-test drive the car on a B road
-Find problems and haggle
-if your BMW sells for 20k for example shop for RR's in the 18K mark and have a buffer of cash for upgrades, maintenance and emergency, likewise if you sell for 25k, keep 2k back etc
- on the L405 test soft close doors, heated seats and other L405 specific tech

This sounds horrible but buy from someone who could afford to maintain a RR. The last two land rovers I have bought have come from gated houses in high end areas. Both cars were well looked after. I also find and this is a personal thing, if the inside is dirty or has lots of scratches or chips taken out of the plastics, walk away. If people can not maintain the inside they sure as hell dont look after whats underneath

Best of luck with the hunt and I hope we see an update soon

Fla Current yokes
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster
2006 Disco 3
Scoobie GT wagon
Mx5 G Ltd
TT S Line
Pajero JDM Exceed