Gidday from Australia, I have a 2010 RR Sport TDV8, 290000, dreaded oil cooler water leak, just wondering if any one has just replaced the gasket and not the whole assemble ? and any recommendations for the aftermarket assemble? with oil filter, original price I have found down here is around $2700 ASD. also any advice on the best manual download for the L322. any advice would be gratefully excepted, thanks all the best Lance.

I assume you mean the assembly deep in the "V" of the engine with the oil filter housing, fuel cooler and crank breather. Where is the coolant leaking from, front of the engine, middle or at the back, several options for leaking.

Thanks for your reply, really hard to determine, I have been able to smell the coolant leak for awhile, no stains on the driveway yet, had a mate pressure test it, small leak seems to be at the firewall side of the oil filter. I am after the better after market parts, the OMParts are way over the top here in Australia. I guess I will have to start pulling stuff off and find the leak. It’s definitely not coming from the thermostat housing. Using about one liter a week. The om rubber gasket for the oil cooler , oil filter is around $180 ASD. Thanks again regards Lance.

Yes people have just changed the gaskets and that works fine. I think that because it’s not much more here to get a whole unit from an ok brand like Nissens, they take that option instead.

If it’s just leaking at the rear, and there’s no oil in the coolant expansion tank, it’s likely to be just the two o rings at the rear. You’ll be able to source vitron replacements of these locally.

cheers, Steve

Thanks for that, I will try and find if someone in Australia sells that brand, all the best Lance.

Not sure on the Sport but on the FF if you remove the cabin air filter housing (2 bolts) you can, whilst lying on the engine, get a better view of the oil filter/ fuel cooling block and determine whether there is coolant visible, on mine the seal of the fuel cooler went, there is no seal available for that so I left the seals and sealed it with JB Weld Ultimate Black RTV, seems to have done the job. As Steveg mentions, when you are that far into the engine you might as well change the seal, part no:LR002340, it does involve taking the EGR's off, the coolant block on the front of the engine (1 bolt is hidden onderneath it)and you will have to do an oil change, coolant everywhere. Having flexible reach hose clamp pliers will make your life a lot easier as there are a whole lot of hoases that need to come out.
Just as an aside, the bolts for the EGR pipe at the back of the engine are non magnetic, don't drop them...
When doing it make photos or video bits to make reassembly a more pleasurable experience.
Good luck.
Will

Thanks Will great advice, do love this Ford derivative engine twin turbo 3.6 280 hp, I have chipped it , blocked the egr valves and now it’s 350 hp. I will pull the cabin filter out tomorrow, thanks again, all the best Lance.