I've embarked on replacing both of my turbos with aftermarket units and with the help of a mechanic and vehicle hoist started the process yesterday. I've used the manual and made mental notes about the process. No pictures as most of the process is well illustrated in the manual.

I've decided to do it without removing the engine.

The first step includes removal of both filter boxes, air intakes from intercoolers, the fan assembly and accessory belt prior to removing the generator.

A pretty straight forward process, with the only tricky part being unbolting the fastener securing a cooler to the bottom of the fan assembly. The manual has you removing the ducting to the turbo which is not necessary for removing the generator whose three bolts can be accessed easily from the front and side when the wheel and inner covers are removed. I loosened the bolts on the generator prior to removing the control wiring and battery input. Have to take care when the generator comes loose as it puts a bit of strain on the control wiring.

I then removed the turbo ducting which includes a plastic pipe carry air from the filters and a steel pipe carrying the charge air back to the intercoolers. The steel pipe is fastened to the front part of the block together with the plastic pipe. It is also fastened via a jubilee clip at the outlet from the turbo. This has a 7mm head and a ratcheting spanner of this size will make removing this a lot easier. The plastic pipe has an inlet going into the top which comes from the oil separation arrangement. It is removed by squeezing the grip indicated portion of a clip. We had to use a small plumbers wrench to do this.

Removing the two heat shields to the rear of the turbo is straight forward, but you have to make sure you’ve shifted the steering shaft out of position in order to free the largest heat shield. This comes out toward the front of the engine.

I removed the exhaust from the back of the turbo by unbolting the end attached to the turbo and then the join to the rear of the DPF filter. The only tricky part of this can be removing the O2 sensor, and it’s helpful to have a tool designed for this purpose - 22mm socket with a split to pass over the loom. I didn’t both with the slip joint as this can get really stiff and difficult to remove.

Starter removal is straight forward, although the breather hose can break when removing it.

The oil return line from the turbo is also straight forward, requiring a Torx 30 to remove the bolts from the bottom of the turbo. The oil feed line I think has a Torx 50 and removal is not too hard.

The loom going to the actuator on the turbo is a bit stiff but comes away after a good pull on the plug.

The bracket holding the rear of the turbo to the engine block has easily accessed bolts, as has the turbo cross over pipe.

The manual then has you removing three bolts and loosening one where the engine mount bolts on to the block. This has to be done with the engine supported and once this is done it can be lifted on a jack.

You can then access the bolts that mount the turbo. I removed the two bolts which you can access, and attempted but failed to remove the last one. We then could access and remove all the nuts holding the exhaust manifold onto the head. This was a tough process, but my very experienced mechanic had them out in ten minutes.

Removing the coolant lines from the back of the turbo is then possible, although you don’t have to remove the fitting which returns the coolant back to the block. Removing the turbo itself is aided by having the engine lifted, but I ended up unbolting the last bolt holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold. This let me remove both parts easily.

I'll post more on the left hand turbo and reassembly etc.

Removal of air cleaner, ducting, hydraulic oil reservoir and fuel filter is pretty straight forward. The ducting to and from the turbos are easy to remove, including the jubilee clip taking the charge air from the turbo to the intercooler. The heat shield bolts are a bit tricky to get to and a 8mm ratcheting spanner is perfect for this job.

Removing the exhaust is simple, but the really tricky part is getting the Torx 30 bolts out from the turbo drain to the block. Removing the rest of the line is not really necessary, but probably good to check and make sure there are no obstructions.

The bracket under the turbo is not too hard to remove, can be approached through the wheel arch with the wheel removed. You will need a bit of a wobble bar to get to some of the bolts if the drain pipe has not been fully removed.

Unlike the RHS turbo the left can be removed without taking the exhaust manifold as well. You can get to one of the bolts from the bottom and two are nice and clear to access from the top.

All in all I'd say the LHS is easier than the RHS, apart from the drain pipe bolts.