If I leave the HVAC on automatic, it will take about 10 miles of driving on cold mornings before it starts blowing warm air. I have found, however, that if I start off with one of the selection buttons pressed (screen, footwells) then switch to automatic, I get heat after about a mile.

Anyone else get this? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

never use auto tbh, i like to have it 'my way'.....did get caught by the side vents blowing cold till i realised my centre vent 'scroll' button was set on cold... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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I just use park heat on these colder mornings! -1'c on bangernomics this morn!

Seriously though I have found leaving it on auto is best but each person is different On 21'c though it never gets a hot air blast but on 22'c its not long before it blasts out hot air to warm the cabin up and I've found removing the viscous seems to help with this cold weather stuff at the minute as well Warms up quicker surprisingly! FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

How do you find the temps without the viscous in place? [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

Well it seems to warm up a bit quicker but not much else touch wood!

I run with the ac on almost all the time so that fan is kickin in and out anyway to get airflowing into the bay at lower speeds. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Have you used the hidden menus to see what temps your running and what you were before? I've been temped to do this but concerned with overheating issues. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

I may have used the hidden menu ages ago but not recently.

The gauge is always just a smidge to the right of middle only by about a mm mind if that, and the engine never has caused me concern so far as i do very little crawling traffic type journeys.

Even offroading it seemed fine with most of the days in low range and crawling up and down hills. Mind you there was a good amount of airflow and the engine bay was toasty but never massively so Most steam seemed to come off the brakes and the exhaust when fording or going thru long deep puddles... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Having finished my journey to work with footwell and face level buttons pressed and turned off the car, I started my journey home in the same state some 9 hours later. 2 minutes into the ride home (at 30mph) I had lovely warm air coming out of the vents. Even better than the aforementioned button switcheroo. ONly a problem if the screen is misted up, but could try with the screen button pressed too, but aren't I just back to AUTO then ?  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Joe90 wrote:

but aren't I just back to AUTO then ?

maybe yes, but you are manually in control of the 'auto'.....  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Craig