Thanks Folks, just off to check mine are positioned correctly now, Regards Ed 0-60 takes 5 and a half seconds...and about 17 gallons of fuel....

Current fleet
2005 RR td6
1997 300 Discovery
2005 Subaru Legacy Outback (the wife's)
1981 2.5 Opel Commodore

tomthevet wrote:

Am I going mental here? Maybe I have been working too hard.

Perhaps, but I think people are reading and replying to the original poster  2007 Zermatt Silver TDV8 Vogue SE - now sold but was a great car!

If you jack up the car and remove the wheel as per owner's manual and then position axle stands underneath the car, does that of itself remove the need to put the vehicle in off road height for this job and does the jacking and axle stand process mean that the lower drop link nut should come off/ the lower part of the drop link come off easier, as it's not under tension/ load on axle stands?

Sorry if this is a daft question but I tried to remove the lower nut with the wheel on and vehicle in off road height today and despite using WD40 to free it up, I could not get the lower nut to move (the top nut did come off after WD-40).

And the lower nut seems a tad sheered on one small corner!

Thanks.

Last edited by pld118 on 19th Sep 2014 3:23am. Edited 1 time in total

Both front ARB Drop Links now DIY replaced.

Land Rover describes the part as a Link Stabiliser Bar, Part No. LLR030047 (I paid £40.82 incl VAT plus extra for prompt delivery for a pair of genuine LR ones - similar to that pictured below - from site sponsor Duckworth Land Rover):


Once the car was locked into off road height there was no need for me to remove any wheels or use any supporting jack in order to release tension, remove or replace the drop links.

As per the below linked thread, I had great difficulty in removing the lower arm Hex nut on the driver's side. No such difficulties were encountered with the passenger side. On both sides, once the old link arms were removed, the new ones were a simple fit by hand:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic27572....t+splitter

If I was going to do this job again, I would ensure that I had the following tools on hand before starting, just in the case of any seized nuts:

* Socket set (preferably 6 point sockets as 12 point sockets can spin under heavy load, shearing the head of a seized bolt)
* Breaker bar
* 18mm spanner
* Wirebrush
* Penetrating fluid (e.g WD40)
* 'ProGas Formula A' anti seize spray or equivelant.
* DIY sized blowtorch
* 'Merceded Benz Sprinter Jack' sized wheelbrace
* 18mm Nut Splitter
* Junior hacksaw and plenty of spare blades
* Small lump hammer and cold chisel plus a thin flat headed screwdriver for chiselling
* Metal file
* Adjustable hand grips
* Grease/ anti seize grease