I recently posted a topic regarding the battery light intermittently coming on which I thought has been resolved and the end to any issues. However, the following is the recent history:

Battery tested and shown to be very low on amps. It was the original 6 year old battery so replaced with a new bosch battery.

Battery light still coming on intermittently and eventually the car wouldn't start. Car went to the local independent specialist Land Rover dealer in Preston and a new alternator fitted. Battery light now not coming on and I'm a happy bunny, or so I thought.

One week later car wouldn't start when I went to leave work. It gave all the indications of a flat battery, even trying to un-park my mirrors struggled to complete. Took the key out and then tried again. Started first time no issues!

Yesterday, 5 days later, I was travelling locally and all the warning lights came on and the car went into limp mode. Pulled over and switched off the ignition and restarted the car. All warnings gone and the car ran fine.

Today went to the local supermarket (5 miles away) and I got the same issues 3 times on the way there and twice on the way back.

Does anyone have any idea what the issue might be?

Check the connections on new battery are murder tight

+1

I just installed a Bosch S5 and I noticed that at full tightness the negative earth cable is not really tight on the post. This could be what's causing the problem above. I guess the Bosch post is slightly smaller than stock.

Any ideas how to tighten the connection further even though the nut is fully tightened on the cable? 2012 5.0L S/C
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Nomad wrote:

I just installed a Bosch S5 and I noticed that at full tightness the negative earth cable is not really tight on the post. This could be what's causing the problem above. I guess the Bosch post is slightly smaller than stock.

Any ideas how to tighten the connection further even though the nut is fully tightened on the cable?

Difficult one - Probably get shot down for this but an idea would be using some flat braided earthing strap, cut to size and wrap that around the post before you put the clamp on



Or alternatively modify the clamp with a dremel so it can close slightly more. (if you have the explosive disconnecter I wouldn't go dremel'ing anything tho)

Edit: Just google'd the first suggestion and although I had a doubt it may be slightly dodgy atleast its not as bad as this suggestion:

Quote:

jam a small piece of metal in there to make it bigger lol

Quote:

Thanks everyone. A thick nail cut down in size should do it. Sorted.

I've just disconnected the battery and reconnected, tightening up as much as I can. Just taken it for a 20 min drive and no issues. Is is fixed? Too early to say I think but watch this space.

Thanks for the replies.

Sounds like you may have found the root of the problems.

May cant be much required to make it clamp properly, just put the 100ah s5 in mine and i did think the clamps were not as tight as they could be. Seems to be ok though. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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OK. A bit embarrassed. Went outside, loosened the negative clamp, banged it down with a hammer - it went down a couple of extra mm onto the post - and tightened it again. This time perfect. Nice and tight! Impact technology - love it!  2012 5.0L S/C
Previous:
3.6 TDV8
4.4 HSE
P38 4.6 HSE
Classic 3.9
90 County
Series3 Lightweight

when in doubt, use a hammer......  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

So it wasn't an electrical problem after all  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
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Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

It seems I've invented an electrical problem you can fix with a hammer!  2012 5.0L S/C
Previous:
3.6 TDV8
4.4 HSE
P38 4.6 HSE
Classic 3.9
90 County
Series3 Lightweight