This is great advice thank you so much. Really want to prevent the rust getting worse. Looks like this winter is going to be a harsh one again so need to do this pronto.

I suppose the other questions are, do you use black or clear and how does the shultze gun work?

I use the black stuff,shutz guns are usually air fed via a compressor,the waxoyl kit is a pump up thing like a garden sprayer,you can get a kit from halfords then just buy a refill tin if you need any more.

If you dont have a little compressor then the pump up ones work pretty good too, either way easier & better than using a brush & I always use the blackstuff  Worse things happen at sea! Well thats what swmbo said when WRENS came to sea!!!

Fantastic. Thanks for all the advice. Another shopping list created!

I know you guys in the UK just LOVE Waxoi but I have not had such a good experience with it when living in Amsterdam' even when having it done by specialists and all their " guarantees" Because it is sprayable, it may be advantagous to spray into body cavities if accessible to tubing. I have found these so- called experts even resort to drilling small holes into chassis sections to get the product into hollows. And later I have found RUST around these openings, even if " sealed " with rubber plugs. If you want to use it do it yourself and don't skimp on material. I now hesitate before drilling into ANY metal structure which is stressed, after reading " Nnuts, bolts and things" by some yank I think the name is Carrol. (He maintains that aircraft have even crashed due to failures of FALSIFied fasteners which had " hardened" markings and then found their way into the fasteners market internationally.)
For metal which is exposed , flat surfaces, I think the best is POR 15 " paint " It forms such an impenetrable coating ( after treatment with their " metal prep" that O2 can't penetrate the barrier. Unaffected by oil, grease etc but must have their topcoat if exposed to sunlight. Then apply a shutz protective layer.( Rubberised or flexible ) I was told by a restorative guy, that they use it by painting it on, acpplying a fibre glass tisue over it, another layer of POR and it then covers multiple sieve-like holes in thin sheet metal and this is as durable as the original metal, as POR is called a paint but it is in fact a " chemical "( i prefer to cut out and weld though!!!)
Much more worky with POR, but I think it will be more durable than Waxiol OR other such coatings. Will update this posting in about 10 years time, when I have driven my by then resored '59 220S Merc. Which I will be covering in POR. Range Rover Vogue TD6 2002
Defender TD5 90Hard Top 2001
Range Rover Classic TDi 1994
Mercedes Benz 1959 220S Sedan

I did the Defender using Waxoyl and wouldn't nuse it again, too messy and the applicator kit from Halfords is rubbish.

Next time I will use Schutz and use the air compressor. There are kits on eBay for about 6 cans of the stuff and the airgun too.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stonechip-Shutz-...51b0a9f5a0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DINITROL-RUST-PR...33766cc1e6 Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB