Hi,

had the dreaded air suspension inactive message crop up and the car is now fixed on the normal ride height.

Went to the garage to get it reset (they've done them before) and they couldn't talk to the ECU. Their machine definitely works and they've been able to do these models before.

Kept coming back with a couldn't talke to ECU message. The only ECU that could be read was the PDC.

Is there anything I can check or do to work out where the issue is?

Stressing me out as it's my first RR and it's only a few days since I brought it.

It's a 4.4 v8 (2004) with LPG

Did they try a battery disconnection procedure, coupled with touching terminals when off the battery?

What diagnostics unit do the garage have?

Do you have any EAS lights on the dash or are they all out?

Where are you? May be a forum member nearby who can help? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

i reckon your battery was low ..did they try with the engine running? ... - .- -.




click link for ,

FORUM WIKI

HOW TO Ǝꓕ∀ꓕOꓤ PICS

workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

@Joe90

They didn't try a battery disconnection procedure - is that something I can do? Is there a 'how-to' guide somewhere? I have read that can cause all kinds of crazy errors to crop up?

The have an autologics (sp??) unit which apparently is really expensive. ECU stuff is their bread and butter so they know what they are doing.

The car wasn't running when he tried to connect.


@Stan - have a multimeter so can try and check if it is? What should it be? It does sometimes take an extra second or so to crank the engine ocassionally.

Could a low battery be causing my air susp inactive error?

Already getting worried that this will be an expensive repair

battery how to in the wiki,

alternator should read around 14.5 volts on idle..
a drop test will reveal if the battery is holding its volts/amps
investing in your own diagnostic tool could be a better option than visiting a dealer each time ..search 'iidtool'.. ... - .- -.




click link for ,

FORUM WIKI

HOW TO Ǝꓕ∀ꓕOꓤ PICS

workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

Checked out the wiki ...

Do I just disconnect the battery, give it 10 mins and then reconnect or short out negative and positive terminals with the battery disconnected?

This won't give me more issues will it??

The car is currently in normal ride height - I don't want it undriveable

Anybody near Walsall that can help out?

Other question was whether you had any EAS lights on the dash? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi,

No lights on the dashboard apart from the message saying it's inactive.

The EAS inhibit switch is on (on the dial next to the suspsension level lights with the 2 arrows on it) and it's locked in to normal ride height.

I believe the lack of lights on the dashboard mean it's a 'soft' fault rather than 'hard' ?

I've done the battery disconnect procedure and then shorted the positive and negative terminals together once the battery was off. After reconnecting, I had the ABS and DSC lights on, did the calibration (full left lock to full right lock) and that made those go away.

However, the air-susp inactive message remains on and it's still in normal ride height

Did read somewhere that low battery voltage can trigger issues with the EAS first - would it worth me connecting another car battery to the terminals (as tho' to jump start mine) and then firing up to see if that cures it (if it would work???)

Thanks guys - sorry for all the questions!! Will get there in the end

No EAS lights usually means a hard fault, requiring Testbook or other diagnostics to bring it back to life.

Don't recommend connecting up to another car just yet, if yours will start on its own then once running and you have 14.5 volts across the terminals (e.g. alternator OK) then you have enough juice. Check your battery with and without engine running, please.

Am guessing the problem is that your garage were unable to 1. read; and then 2. clear the faults. We really need the codes read to go any further, this might mean a trip to the LR stealer £££

I take it that you cannot turn off the inhibit light by pressing it?

And regarding touching the terminals, many people have had success with this as it is supposed to clear down the ECUs. It can't do any damage, all it does is clear any residual static charge in the system. (Same as with a desktop PC with problems, can sometimes be sorted by switching off, unplugging it from the mains, waiting a bit, touching it (grounding out static), then plugging it all back in again). .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks Joe 90

The inhibit light cannot be switched off.

Will check battery voltage tomorrow morning in daylight.

What's worrying me is that the diagnostics guys couldn't talk to any ECU apart from the PDC one. Would the battery reset operation have fixed that or is is symptomatic of bigger problems?

Oki doke....


multimeter across the battery terminals gives:

Engine off: 12.01v
Engine running: 14.02v

Is that ok?

What else shall I look at?

Any next steps I can take?

If you can get yourself to Birmingham on Friday (28th), I'll try my RSW cable on it. PM me and we'll sort something.