^ Alternator

Well I did an alternator test but just with engine running and got 14.1 volt I thought it had to be 14.4 could be wrong though.
That's my next port of call because I've got the cable harness from battery to the glow plug relay and ecu cable because their in one lead. Ebajema I might be abit thick here but which clamp are you talking about on the battery or alternator??
Thanks for ur help 😉

You really think alternator gazellio?? Do they go wrong much? And how to i correctly tell it's the alternator?

14.1 volts is ok, anything between 14 and 14.5 is acceptable.. ... - .- -.




click link for ,

FORUM WIKI

HOW TO Ǝꓕ∀ꓕOꓤ PICS

workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

Hmmm looks like I'm in abit of a pickle lol. It must be something electrical as for the cut out from cold it took 1hr while on idle to cut out then about 15mins worth of driving it cut out. But when it did cut out I tested it and only 11.75 volt so perhaps faulty alternator or the cabling I hope. Any other thoughts??

I presume your battery terminals are tight?
Have you checked the connection from the battery -ve terminal to the body?
Have you checked the connections to and from the +ve jump post?
Have you checked the connections to the alternator?
Can you check the resistance between the engine block and the battery earth terminal?

You could try connecting a jump lead between the engine block, eg a bolt head etc, and the -ve jump post and see if any improvement.

If you run the engine at 2000rpm with nothing switched on what is the voltage across the battery terminals?
What is the voltage with the engine idling with nothing switched on?

Well we have another problem now. Put the battery on charge got 100% put it back into the car and now the car cracks for 5 seconds and stops completely!!! Repeat it again does the same thing cranks for 5seconds then stops!!!

For people that want to know I've replaced the regulator and all seems fine phew...now just gotta get the sat nav working