Not quite sure whats going on here, but changes the front struts and airbags on my car today and left the window open whilst I disconnected the battery, fired it all back up and the window wouldn't close (drivers only). Could hear the motor click to open, but wouldn't close.

I was messing about for hours with the door card lowered, but couldn't work it out, I found this on RAVE, the black and green wires to straight to the motor...

With window up, and wires as they should be, doors closed, try a battery disconnect and leave it off for @ 1 hour. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I would put the wiring back the way it was, with the window shut, disconnect the battery, go down the pub, have lunch and an afternoon snooze and then reconnect... failing that just wait the 30 mins And hopefully it should go back to normal... the windows don't have limit switches.. so one of the many computers in the car works out how long is required to open / close the window... when you disconnect the battery it forgets where it is and what its doing, so it has to relearn.... your asking it to close a window that it thinks is closed already I would try that before you go in to the logic circuits and try all manor of

Good luck  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

So in theory... I could just disconnect the battery for an hour, and then when I reconnect it should work?

Swapping the wiring just means my button works upside down, if the battery off fixes the problem I'll take the door card back off and rectify the wiring  

I have noticed that there appears to be 2 relays in the wiring diagram you posted.. possibly one has gone down... but what is on the drawing what is actually there are 2 different things, as I suspect that LR will be using solid state relays (chips) to do the job... 1 cos they is cheap, and 2 cos they make no noise...... if that is the case then it will be a new module required... but hopefully the reset will sort it, they tend to get the hump when you mess with them and they do all sorts of silly things to tell you they have the hump.....

Just think of owning a ffrr is like looking after a 2 year old Prone to throwing a wobbly, but can give great joy when rushing around... but at any second can come to an abrupt halt and go to sleep... just when you don't need it  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!