Some pics:

Try again

Yikes! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Just an update. I can confirm that more of the plastic shrouding needs to be removed to replace the fan than to remove it, due to the way the fans can be squished to remove them.

Anyway, with MANY cuts and scrapes to my hands, I have a replacement fan installed. This is not for the faint hearted!

Now, since I'm in there, I'll get the pixel fix done too!

Ian

I'm not winning. The first replacement fan had cracks on the rim of the fan which I didn't notice until it was in. Well done to the eBay seller who gave me a refund. The second replacement just gave up, with a 3-blade long section of rim broken off. It was quiet when installed, then I noticed a buzzing sound today on full whack. Luckily I haven't put the dash back yet as I want to get the pixels fixed, so popped the cover off and there it was, broken.

Do these fans go brittle over time? I think I have to order a new one. Either the £57 aftermarket ones or £££ LR one.

Thoughts?

Ian

The eBay seller of the second one stood by their guarantee and sent me another, so that's a job for the weekend.

.

mr_spock......Captain Kirk here

look if this is any help:

The first thing I would check would be the blower motor resistor which if ;remember is under the driver sides top of the foot pedals inside looking at at steering wheel - I would get this module out and check the voltage to begin with - it may be faulty - usually the first thing to give up the ghost.

A breif Description of the FFRR Blower in case this helps
The blower is installed between the air inlets and the FFRR evaporator and consists of 2 open hubs with centrifugal fans powered by a
single electric motor which can become brittle over time, so if you pull them out they will break thats for sure.
The electric motor is by the FF ATC module via the blower motor control module (voltage amplifier) which is installed in the outlet of the RH fan unit.
She has a total of 7 blower speeds the ATC module outputs a stepped control voltage between 0 Volts and 8 Volts to the blower
motor control module (BMCM), which regulates a battery power feed from the central junction box (CJB) to the blower.
The control voltage changes, in 1 Volt steps, between 2 Volt (blower speed 1) and 8 Volts (blower speed 7). If the control voltage is less than 2 Volts the blower is off - its as simple as that.

In case you need to know a little more:
The heater controls the temperature the volume and distribution of air supplied to the distribution ducts as directed by
selections made on the automatic temperature control (ATC) module control panel inside the FF. The heater is installed in the FFRR’s
center-line, between the instrument panel and the engine bulkhead.
The heater consists of a casing formed from a series of plastic moldings. Internal passages integrated into the casing guide the air through the casing and separate it into two flows, one for the left-hand (LH) outlets and one for the right-hand (RH) outlets. THeir are 2 drain outlets at the bottom of the casing are connected to overboard drain hoses in the sides of the transmission tunnel.
A blower unit
A blower motor control module as pictured
A heater core
Control doors
Control door motors
The thermostatic expansion valve and the evaporator of the air conditioning (A/C) system inside the FF
The evaporator temperature sensor and 2 heater temperature sensors
To take the unit out is very straight forward so see the diagrams below;

Click image to enlarge

Hi, I'm not sure you've read the thread! I replaced the FSR, wasn't that. Look at the pics in my earlier post - one side of the fan had disintegrated! I replaced it with another one that turned out to be broken - then same again. I think the fan plastics go brittle over time. Whichever way you go in to the fan housing, there is a squeeze to get it past the insulation (which I've trimmed back now). I can get the fan out and in inside 15 minutes, and when they're in, they work - then break up.

There may be some debris in the housing that's getting sucked into the fan maybe. I'll clean more scrupulously.

Bastard thing. Got the replacement, broke it putting it back. There's a "just so" angle, miss it and the fan catches on something, or gets squeezed by the wiring loom and it's a goner.

Losing heart in this now.

Just to close this off, I bought a new Febi fan, cut away some more of the inner dash to get clearance, and it all went back together just fine.

may your new fan live long and prosper  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Glad you're warm....

 Pete
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