Reading this thread with interest, I have a 3.6 TDV8 I've owned for 10 months - when I got it the first thing I did was change the fluid and filter as it had never been changed. It drives 'ok' but I feel the shifts can be a bit odd at times, sometimes if feels like it hangs onto gears for too long, sometimes the shifts are super slurred, or they can be quite harsh when the weather is very cold.

I'm getting some 'interesting' readings out of IID on my adaptions (if they're the right values):

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Wow, as you say, those readings are ‘interesting’ . The clutches will typically operate at hydraulic pressures around 5-10 bar (500 to 1000kPa) so the readings around 655 bar are clearly rubbish. 1.85 bar for a fill pressure (E-clutch) sounds plausible, though.

Still, we’re making progress . I wonder if anyone else with the same (or different) diagnostic kit might be able to take readings for their transmissions so that we can compare?

Phil

Not the same sensor but I too have an iid tool and it reads the map sensor as exactly that ridiculous high number but plug in my snap on and it’s normal wonder if there is a bug Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

I've an IID, Autologic and SDD

I'll compare readings across all 3 on Tuesday

I did my third partial change.
All were 4.5 liters out and 4.5 in while in R.
This time I tried the procedure and only 3 liters were in.
I waited for 20 minutes to drain.
And first attempt was only over 2 liters.
And after gear procedure only 1 more.
Any ideas?? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

I have done 2 partial gear box oil changes not a superflush and both times I only managed to get 4.5l back in, not too fussed as 4.5l came out, not quite sure how one is supposed to get 6 litres in. The gearbox has been working perfectly for the year I have had the car, it does work quite hard towing trailers up and down hills and motorways but we'll see in a couple of years what the longevity will be and I should have had Bodsy do the job instead..

Exact same numbers Red.
I will add the remaining 2 ASAP.
Maybe there was less amount before draining so they could put 6 liters in.
Otherwise too difficult. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Has anyone experienced low fluid symptoms?
There should be jerky shifts shudder etc.
I don’t have any but should I put the 4.5 liters back although it dripped after procedure after taking only 2.5 liters. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Last 3 minutes are interesting about cooling lines.
Says u must check level after driving and cooling again. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Carried out a transmission oil & filter change today, along with changing the rubbery bits above the valve block. I didn't find any horrors in the sump, there was a bit of slurry on the magnets, but I've seen worse, the date on the filter was 2007, i've previously done three oil changes with a decent quality oil, this one was with Lifeguard 6 and 30ml of an anti-foaming agent (Shell, but with a Merc. part number).
It's like a different transmission, previously there were some harsh downshifts, no upshift slippage but some odd changepoints and most of the time, a discernible D to R 'thump'. All that appears to have gone, I've done just over 30 miles of steady driving, there's some 'kick' from changes under load - i.e. uphill, but nothing like previously.
Now, the crucial question - should I reset the adaptions? common sense says 'no' as I don't do that many long drives, it's mostly commuting TBH, I'm tempted to wait until we go on holidays as there will be some long, light throttle runs, on the other hand, it's got north of 150k on it and probably wouldn't take kindly to being told to 'start again' with so many other changes having recently happened...

Only reset adaptations after solenoids are changed out is the general rule....

Phoenix wrote:

Carried out a transmission oil & filter change today, along with changing the rubbery bits above the valve block. I didn't find any horrors in the sump, there was a bit of slurry on the magnets, but I've seen worse, the date on the filter was 2007, i've previously done three oil changes with a decent quality oil, this one was with Lifeguard 6 and 30ml of an anti-foaming agent (Shell, but with a Merc. part number).
It's like a different transmission, previously there were some harsh downshifts, no upshift slippage but some odd changepoints and most of the time, a discernible D to R 'thump'. All that appears to have gone, I've done just over 30 miles of steady driving, there's some 'kick' from changes under load - i.e. uphill, but nothing like previously.
Now, the crucial question - should I reset the adaptions? common sense says 'no' as I don't do that many long drives, it's mostly commuting TBH, I'm tempted to wait until we go on holidays as there will be some long, light throttle runs, on the other hand, it's got north of 150k on it and probably wouldn't take kindly to being told to 'start again' with so many other changes having recently happened...

Cheers @dingg1 I did consider that to be the case, just thought I'd see what the collective opinion is with such an extended interval between oil & filter change (153k miles / 15 years).
I did carry out the ZF 'soft' adaption drive, all I have left to do is a final level check - won't be doing it in the next week or so though!
I have access to a level alignment ramp, the car takes about 0.3l more on there than a two-post lift.

Phoenix, just making sure you followed the ZF service procedure for the run in part (i've done a ZHP26 before with full seal replacement)?

Here's the steps in case you don't have them.

Click image to enlarge

if you change oil 2-3 times, do you have to change sump everytime ?
car in question is 07 tdv8 , 140k miles old, no idea if gearbox was ever serviced.
please advise.