Last year i got 4 advisories for my brake pipes so decided it was time to do. Firstly welded extra angle iron uprights on my ramps. The extensions i made 10 years ago also had a extra uprights added.
I backed my fatty up onto it, luckily this gave me the clearance needed to remove the petrol tank covers (one on each side). I then removed the road wheels and fatty was supported on 4 off 3 ton axle stands.
I won't detail the process as it was almost the same as Joe 90's write up. the only difference was there is a 3 pipe brass inline connection on the nearside wing so i worked from that back to the N/S/F, N/S/R and O/S/R wheels.
The O/side front was the only pipe that went to the ABS block (sited in front of the master cylinder). I also replaced both rear flexable brake pipes.
I flushed the whole system using my Ezee Bleed kit (about 1 1/2 litres per wheel, includes 2 sessions of bleeding the system).
Car went for MOT yesterday, passed with no advisories, many thanks to all brake line Guru's for guidance

Peter

Nice work  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Do you pre order these or make them up yourself?

Thanks Joe,
Much appreciated, it was a bit daunting at first, the hardest thing was getting those bloody tank covers off, like you i did cut the rear lips away but kept the rear fixings in place, refitting was a doddle. Once i got stuck in things flowed nicely. Your "how to post" was a great help .

Hi, Paul,

No, formed them up as I went along, the R/N/S was one continious line, I formed the mushroom then capped it off
and fed it through from under the bonnet through the existing route and left it straight until I made the connection at the rear, then formed the curves and finally cut it under the bonnet, formed the mushroom and connected up.
This was the same method I did for the R/O/S, would have liked to use a single run but as you can see i had to do it in 2 parts the inline joiner is protected by the N/S tank cover when it was refitted.
When I had finished my thumbs and fingers were hurting like hell but it was well worth doing.

The only one I was able to preform and fit was the F/N/S (see pic). I used the original one as a guide.

Click image to enlarge