IM SURE THIS IS NOT NEW , Ive done a lot of seaeching online to define the socket for the rear hub nut/driveshaft for 2004 L322 , I have decided it is a 36mm 12pt socket and I need as a 3/4 drive as I think the 1/2 " is going to snap. Can I ask if this is what I am looking for?

Ok sorted so far , Hub nut off and driveshaft out reluctor ring was left in the hub totally goosed and adrift from driveshaft , now for replacement with new ring

Not pretty

Can you tell us what socket/tool you got in the end to remove the nut, and from where ? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

The hub nut on the end of the driveshaft , 36mm 12pt , has to at leas 3/4 drive , very tight!
Swivel bar and extension rested on a suitable support (crucial) level with nut so can put maximum energy into the bar and tube onto that as well.

Reckon this might do it, with an impact driver and /or some trampoline legs

https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/to...m-1-2drive .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Jack the car up, put the socket on the hub with a breaker bar, block the end of the breaker bar up with blocks of wood, bricks etc and let the jack partially down. Let the weight of the car and gravity crack the nut while you have a cup of tea.

nicedayforit, nice one but can I have a beer please

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just bought me one of these for undoing tricky nuts.......

That will be a very powerfull tool if it will undo the hub nut. I needed a 3/4 breaker bar and a 4 ft. scaffold tube. 2011 4.4 tdv8 Kahn. 2007 supercharged with 2012 lights and overfinch body kit. P38 with a full J.E.Engineering conversion

A very expensive Ingersol impact I had would not look at it , so yeah 3/4 breaker bar, nut been since new I reckon. I saw the Halfords one , but half inch drive and I already had one.
Now to the other side!
NSR off and out , if anyone doing this it’s not easy . The shaft bolts to centre diff are also very tight and could shear, I gave them a good heat at the diff end as I was sure they were going to shear. the bottom arm bolt on mine needed a bit of caution as well as the corrosion has brought down the sizing to 20 mm , but every car is different around this age , it depends on the past work done. Now to clean up and incidentally the old abs ring fell off this shaft as it came out. The offside has been cleaned and brought back to a decent finish , however a good deal of corrosion has reduced the overall diam by about 1/2 mm, I have been assured that fitting a new band / ring with retainer will compensate for the wear from corrosion.

Am I right in thinking it’s about 400 Nm? When I did my front one back up I calculated how far along the breaker bar I would need to stand to apply the correct torque as my torque wrench didn’t go high enough.

Alapat.. You mention the reluctor ring and retainer. What and where is the retainer as I didn't see one. 2011 4.4 tdv8 Kahn. 2007 supercharged with 2012 lights and overfinch body kit. P38 with a full J.E.Engineering conversion

Getting the hub nut off is the easy part.

If the shaft is seized in the hub, it’s a whole world of pain

^^^^supposed to have "Up to 1625Nm of "breakaway" torque ensures removal of the tighest bolts".......... There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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