Hi jaguar3
The nut at the bottom of the sensor is separate to the to the sensor itself.
So when you remove the nut the sensor will sit in the manifold on a lip inside the hole
I just made the comment in case (as I was) there was concern it would fall into the manifold
Yes you will need the special tool to fit the new sensor.
Interesting to hear LHD cars have components in different positions to RHD.
Best of luck
. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Yea, especially steering wheel
NEVER EVER will not do this work again.
Got new sensor yesterday (I didnt expect its so expensive, almost 200€) and first, open the nut compleatly. It was easy, I get it loose couple days ago. And I didnt spray WD40 for many days, only once before opening. And this wrench with joint I use to open the nut.

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Is it possible to slide a thicker tube over your home made spanner, and cut a gap in it to reinforce your spanner, or is there no room for anything thicker?

Well, lets see. Maybe at first I try to find just stronger 13mm spanner with acceptible lenght and cut it as previous.
And finally, littlebit info. When I ask the cost of this work in LR dealer, they say no, too risky. Only in case if I accept engine removing work cost, they can try and 5h in good case. In bad case (if broken something) engine removing for sure. By the way, they never do it.
Other LR workshops show me the door immidietly, when I start to talking about this sensor replacement. They dont want even to try. And thatwhy nobody dont have special tool.
What that mean? That mean most of RR with 4,4 engines drive around without this sensor. And nothing not happening, they all alive and no any issues. Or Iam wrong? Maybe old sensor sometime working sometime not? Maybe when it get hot it start to show value?
Lets try. Make it hot and measure at the same time.

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But yeah, thanks guys you gave me the courage to do this work. Now its done and no error codes anymore in the system.

Hi GDDR and others.
Did you finally find out what exactly this sensor really doing?
I dont know, but my opinion is according this manual:

"The active regeneration temperature of the DPF is closely monitored by the DPF software to maintain a target temperature of 600°C at the DPF inlet. The temperature control ensures that the temperatures do not exceed the operational limits of the turbocharger and the catalytic converter. The turbocharger inlet temperature must not exceed 830°C and the catalytic converter brick temperature must not exceed 800°C and the exit temperature must remain below 875°C.
Depending on the DPF temperature, the DPF software requests the Engine Control Module (ECM) to perform either one or two post-injections of fuel:
- The first post-injection of fuel retards combustion inside the cylinder which increases the temperature of the exhaust gas.
- The second post-injection of fuel is injected late in the power stroke cycle. The fuel partly combusts in the cylinder, but some unburnt fuel also passes into the exhaust where it creates an exothermic event within the catalytic converter, further increasing the temperature of the DPF."

Its must be impossible to make proper regeneration without info about the temperature. This sensor measure temp. direct after burning chamber (its first sensor on the way in exhaust system). Is it possible its just for protect the parts from too high temp.? Turbos? Pistons? EGR? Engine it self?
Reduce/cut off post-injections when temp. value goes too high?
Interesting, how EMC works without this value? Reduce regeneration temp. to be sure nothing no melt? Decrease reg. time? Reduce post-injections?

I know one guy who drive 200km/h quite long time. As a result, pistons melted. And he had the same fault code (of course he had also dirty radiators, that was the main reason probably).

By the way, cars without DPF also have this sensor and the same fault code. Why?
With DPF 6 sensors on exhaust. Without DPF 4.

All wrong. Finally I found what this sensor doing. All is very simple.
This sensor is not related to DPF at all. Its related to - what a surprise - to EGR. Its measure inlet temperature. Depending of value, ECM operate a vacuum valve inside the EGR, wich send exhaust gas to intake thru heat exchanger (if hot enough), or around it (not hot enough).
When this sensor is our of work, as a default, exhaust gas going always thru heat exchanger and never around it. In this case EGR just not working properly and too cold exhaust gas pass to inlet.

great research!

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Just want to say a big Thank You to GGDR for this write up.
Just done this job and the Write up was invaluable.
Still took me about 6 Hrs and my hands and lower arms are very sore but it’s done and fitted and the Fault Code is no more 😎😎😎 2001, 4.4 TDV8, Vogue, Baltic Blue

Just to underdtand what exactly we fixing by changing this sensor:

"NOx forms primarily due to the presence of oxygen and high temperatures. By recirculating exhaust gas back into the cylinders, EGR lowers the heat of combustion and thereby reduces NOx. EGR coolers further lower the temperature of the exhaust gas before recirculation, thereby achieving an even greater reduction in NOx.

However, the constant use of cooled exhaust gas results in the engine taking longer to reach optimal combustion temperatures. Incomplete combustion—and the associated emissions—can result during that period.

New EGR cooler has a built-in bypass channel to send exhaust gases directly back to the combustion chambers when the engine temperature is low. Sensors calculate the engine temperature and a pressure valve opens the bypass channel whenever the temperature is below a set value. This helps the engine warm faster, reducing the time for incomplete combustion."

Last edited by jaguar3 on 10th Oct 2022 6:49pm. Edited 1 time in total

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Just want to say a big Thank You to GGDR for this write up.

You're very welcome. and welcome to the club.  Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Hi everyone and thanks GGDR for all the time that you've spent on this and to everyone who has contributed to this epic thread.
I've just changed this sensor and cleared the code which came with my 2012.(aka beast).

I saw the code when I first scanned, and dismissed it as per the usual advice.

Since then I've done loads of stuff and learnt a lot from you guys.

One niggle which I've had is a burning smell from the engine which comes through the vents after a good run when I pull up (it was really bad) even had some smoke under the bonnet but not enough to trace it to somewhere.

I had an oil leak from the oil/egr cooler stack somewhere so I had the lot off and changed all the gaskets and seals right down to the block.
Finally had a oil free engine but smell still there, even after a good clean and giving it time to burn clear.

When jaguar 3 said that the sensor controls the egr cooler bypass, it occurred to me that if the sensor is reading cool, the egr gasses would never be cooled and possibly overheat the egr and inlet.
I'm prepared to be corrected on this but since changing the sensor the dreaded smell has instantly and completely gone!

Just wanted to thank everyone and offer up my symptom of a faulty sensor.

Well, we dont know exactly what those temp. sensors doing in addition to bypass valve. Maybe those control also EGR valve itself. We also dont know how system works when some of the value is missing, but probably there is some "basic" program for EGR operation in this case, not exactly according to real conditions.
But we know we have quite common issue with inlet manifolds cracking. Maybe it is due too hot exhaust gases pass into the inlet. Maybe.
Well, when this sensor is changed we dont need to think about "how wrong" our EGR working, its working properly for sure now.

Here in Australia we don’t have a DPF so we can’t figure out what if anything the sensor does and as I don’t have a DPF, is there a need to replace it and should I just keep ignoring fault, have no engine light or anything on dash, by the way Great instructions on how to change sensor, 2011 Voque 4.4 TDV8

1. This sensor not related to DPF at all.
2. This sensor operate EGR bypass valve (for sure).
3. This sensor help to operate EGR itself (maybe, not sure).