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neilly



Member Since: 06 Oct 2019
Location: Oxon
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Baltic Blue
Tailgate not opening on switch, but opens using GAPIID

Hi All,

First techie post on here, I have doen a search but none of the results show a similar problem that I can find.
I have had the 2011 TDV8 for about 2 months and loving it, I have noticed the lower tailgate has stopped working on the button, it was intermittent for a while, but now seems to be completely dead on the tailgate switch.
I pulled the switch and linked the connector out on the plug and it still will not work. Switch bells out as working on the DVM. Fuse looks good and I have swapped the relay for a twin on the board and still nothing.

However, when I use the IID to open the tailgate it works OK.

It seems that the voltage at the switch was only 7 volts. But I need to verify this again.

Are there any connections I need to check in the loom?, known places that it breaks down? Other fail safes that could cause the issue?

Thanks in advance.

Neil

Post #535564 26th Nov 2019 9:52pm
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Weejock



Member Since: 31 Dec 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 416

2002 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Epsom Green

The obvious place to check following on from what you've already done would be the wiring in the rubber ducting/gaiter between the tailgate and body as that's where it's exposed to mechanical stress of opening and closing the tailgate over the years.
You can pull out the grommet and pull back the duct to check the wiring. Looks like the connector for the tailgate loom is just inside the boot a few inches from the body grommet so should be fairly easy to check for voltage drop/continuity between there and the switch connector.

If you find one wire damaged inside the ducting it's possible there are more so check them thoroughly. If there are damaged wires there do any repairs by pulling a new wire through and terminating outside of the duct, placing any sort of non-flexible connection inside the duct itself is likely to cause problems with the other wires eventually.
I fixed a friends D2 with broken wiring inside the front door wiring duct. I ended up replacing the door loom as it was cheap enough and the rest of the wiring had become brittle and more would have broken eventually. It was quicker to strip the door card out, replace the loom than it would have been to do a proper job repairing the wires (we are talking a lot more wires than in a tailgate though).

Post #535606 27th Nov 2019 12:13pm
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neilly



Member Since: 06 Oct 2019
Location: Oxon
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Baltic Blue

Thanks Weejock,

Yep, that sounds like a good next step, Not something I am in a mad hurry to have to fix, but would like it right. So will take it one step at a time.

Plus I want to download the WSM from Topix as the WSM on Wiki does not appear to show the correct wiring loom, Unles I am missing something. That will make tracing the wires a bit easier for colour codes.

Cheers

Post #535668 27th Nov 2019 7:11pm
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neilly



Member Since: 06 Oct 2019
Location: Oxon
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Baltic Blue

Fixed, the connector in the wheel well had a green corroded and broken 12V live.

Thanks

Post #536647 7th Dec 2019 1:29pm
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