Hi,
Thought I would let you know how im getting on fitting my Naviplus unit.

I started today (Tuesday ) about 1130ish and have just come in to have a cup of tea and clean all the blood off my fingers !!
so just under 3 hours so far.

Im going to have to finish today as I have opened the car windows and have taken out the fuse box (head unit is behind it)
Silly really. Oh and while I'm at it how on earth are you supposed to get to the bloody fuse box without removing the glove box ??

Having never striped out a newer range rover the biggest amount of time was spent on Utube and Google trying to locate the hidden clips.. the ones on the side vents really got me going !!!!

Any way....

So when the kit arrived from australia (very quick shipment buy the way) i did a dry run on the kitchen table to see if i understood where all the wires and connections go. (didn't take any pics)
I had a few questions for naviplus so fired off an email and got a response by the time I was up this morning. ( it would have been about 4am when their time when I emailed them)

So.....


all the stuff spread out on my tail gate.


The start of the strip down


All the glove boxes and cd player out


fuse box out to one side, silver box behind is allegedly the head unit !!!


Everything out and time to go to the workshop !!

This is when I have stopped for tea and a snack. will do some more photos as I attack the other head unit

Andy 2011 4.4 TDV8
2000 4.6 P38
1998 D1 300tdi

 Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

I have got the full kit on order and expecting delivery in the next week or so, but I am seriously worried that it is far more involved than I originally thought the fitting would be.
Thanks for your post detailing the full job.

Perhaps you could add your list of questions and the answers from Naviplus. ?

Looking forward to episode 2.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Happily take a second hand, never fitted set if needed Mike  Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

Watch this space
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

i think what Ian means is that he will come up to you and fit it free of charge...  ... - .- -.




click link for ,

FORUM WIKI

HOW TO Ǝꓕ∀ꓕOꓤ PICS

workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

If only ...
It does seem to be the solution we have all been hoping for, and will be good eventually. I am in no rush....
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Well done Andy - wriggling that fuse board out is probably the hardest part of the install - let me know if you have any questions - by the way make sure you set DIP switches 2,3 and 4 to Down (ON) - the DUAL view instructions mistakenly just say 2 and 3.

After you've installed it you'll need to program the steering wheel controls which I don't think were included in the instructions. I'll dig this out and post it on here.

Also they don't tell you this but try to install the two flat wifi antennas as far from the headunit (display) and away from metal parts of the dashboard structure.

Don't forget to install the microphone which is used for Siri - I put it in the bottom corner of the driver side A pillar so it isn't visible. For the IR receiver I hid it behind the passenger kick panel on the dashboard side so I can use it if ever required.

You don't need to install the additional video AUX cables or the reset button cable.

Unrelated - you can get those finger print type marks off your headunit using a baby wipe - just rub gently in circular motions - it's the remaining anti glare which has half rubbed off.

me !!

I nearly threw the fuse board across the drive, what a pain......

So not all good Im afraid

The head unit mods were not to bad












Soldering the aux and can bus cables to the connectors was a royal pain in the bum due to lack of space and the LR loom being all twisted.
None of the colour codes matched but the pin outs in the instructions were spot on, the main loom supplied helped make a lot of sense as to where stuff goes.



I managed to get it all wired in and roughly ready for a trial run




reconnected the battery and ....... nothing ! just a landrover logo and thats all and a sense of dread that i had ruined a perfectly good stereo system !

I got called in for dinner at that point and whilst eating it dawned on me that maybe the CD player has to be in circuit as well, It was still in the boot !!
So after dinner I connected the CD player up and Bingo ! the standard system came on line and works perfectly.

So I hold down the call end button on the wheel the display switches and says "navi no signal"

at least its switching though !

Also I plugged my phone into the USB (i haven't extended it yet) and it does nothing, (no charge bong!) so im thinking the problem might be in the Netplay Box not powering up.

Anyway, will email Naviplus now and see what they say...

Its not all bad, and is probably something simple.

So far the worst of it was stripping down the trim and removing the fuse board and soldering those pigging wires by the head unit behind where the fuse board lives.. 2011 4.4 TDV8
2000 4.6 P38
1998 D1 300tdi

WB wrote:

Well done Andy - wriggling that fuse board out is probably the hardest part of the install - let me know if you have any questions - by the way make sure you set DIP switches 2,3 and 4 to Down (ON) - the DUAL view instructions mistakenly just say 2 and 3.

Andy, I’m fairly sure that is your issue! The correct PIN config is 2,3 AND 4 set to on for both single and dual view.

If you just do 2 and 3 then you’ll get an extra screen which says NAvi no signal! You can check if thats the issue by pressing end call a second time and your naviplus screen should come up.

First time it boots up you have to do the touch screen calibration - hold your finger on the middle of the screen for a good 10 seconds then press on the crosshairs that come up.

Damn I wish I’d mentioned the CD changer - i did the same bl00dy thing!

I’m afraid you’re now going to have to get the fuse board out again to do the pins!

OK then. Its in and it all works !!

It not working last night was totally my fault! I had connected the units yellow wire to the wrong pin on the back of the display unit. so i re-soldered it and bingo! the display started working and my phone went 'bong' to let me know it was getting a charge.

Calibration of the touch screen was easy, one of the two instruction sets i was given had a how to in it.

reconnected my phone and the airplay screen came up straight away but unfortunately no sound.

So hear is where things start getting a little odd, i mentioned this to naviplus in an email, they had already put me on the right track with the yellow wire, and mentioned that I would have to take the fuse board out to check my wiring
got an email back saying you don't have to remove the fuse board just tap into the aux wires..

This resulted in a few emails going back and forth where we both misunderstood what the other was saying and I think we were both getting a little frustrated. at the moment im not to sure about their after sales service, could just be me taking it the wrong way as its hard to tell in an email if someone is being snippy or not....

Anyway, I decided to bypass the permanent wiring to the head unit behind the fuse board and dug out a stereo minijack to phono cable from the workshop, plugged it into the socket in front of the rear seats and into the Navi unit and the sound started to work. So i assumed I had made a balls up of the wiring behind the fuse board.

When I looked at the fuse board I tried to make sense of what the guy in Aus was trying to say then it dawned on me, you DONT have to take the fuse board out, there are two 10mm bolts that hold the head unit in ( i removed the heater vent pipe that was in the way) When you undo these two bolts the head unit slides down from behind the fuse board.

I remade the connections, replugged the phono plugs from the Nav unit to the installed ones, connected the battery and it all worked !!

I then disconected the battery put everything back as it should be, tucked all the boxes away, started re fitting the CD player and the glove box and generally having a good old tidy.

At this point, as there was no more wiring to be done I reconnected the battery and tested it one last time ... NO SOUND
i was a tad off as i have been chasing this lack of sound all morning and the thought of taking all the trim out again me off a lot.

So as a last resort I went to plug my temporary mini jack to phono lead back into the rear AUX socket to see if I had screwed up the soldering again but with just the mini jack plugged in the installed wiring started to work....

It would appear, in my case at least, that I have to have an unwired/empty mini jack plugged into the rear socket to make the aux inputs work..

This took about 4 hours of going round and round fault finding and trim removal, It turns out that my wiring was fine it just needed an empty mini jack plugged in. what a waste of time. There is no mention of this in the instructions...

So its all working and im very pleased

What have I learnt.

1. Although fiddly, recheck all you solder connections
2. The RR system will only work if the CD player is plugged in as well
3. It needs an empty mini jack in the rear socket to make the AUX input of the RR system to work.
4. The head unit can be slid out of its position without taking out the fuse board
5. The RR sound system doesn't like being unplugged when on, I had to disconnect the battery to get it going again.

will post up some photos in a min..... 2011 4.4 TDV8
2000 4.6 P38
1998 D1 300tdi

Main screen


Ipod


Waze


Waze typing in an address from the touch screen not the phone


Waze past journeys accessed from the screen not the phone 2011 4.4 TDV8
2000 4.6 P38
1998 D1 300tdi

i had the no sound issue but it took Steve 5 mins to tell me what to do - you just have to short the Aux wire To ground under the rear console Aux socket - cleaner than a blank jack on the socket. Its not needed on all cars as they dont all have aux detect and I’m sure I mentioned this in one of my earlier posts.

To do this you need to test for continuity between left, right and ground from a jack cable plugged into the aux and the 4 wires beneath it. The one that isnt left, right or Ground is the Aux detect wire. Simply snip the aux detect wite and short it to the ground and hey presto.

We should try to compile a lessons learned/faq between us to help future installations.

There’s a good method for splicing/soldering wires which I’ll find a photo of and post to avoid bad connections.

Anyway very glad you got there and hope you enjoy it! By the way I find Waze, if you use it, looks better in dark mode and easier to read.

Ha ! 5 mins ?
I don’t think it was steve on the other end of the email trail today. I found whoever it was a little unhelpful to be honest. When I mentioned the no sound thing he just said check your wiring !,
Shame really as I’ve quite enjoyed the conversion and the end product is brilliant..
The instructions are a little vague in places, i was constantly cross referencing across the two different sets I had been sent to find out most of what I needed to know..

I haven’t been able to get the WiFi side of it to work yet, the antennas are in but I cannot see anything to log into as yet.

I’m mostly going to use it wired anyway. 2011 4.4 TDV8
2000 4.6 P38
1998 D1 300tdi