All sorted, check my post from 8th Sep 2020 8:36pm

Felt the brakes were weird since yesterday and thought it were my new trainers (lol) but after I got the Brake Fluid low warning today, I suspect I need to tackle with a leak somewhere.. I hope it the flexi hoses which is easier to replace but in case I need other pipes replaced.. can someone give me pointers on where to start.

I have read several threads where there are pointers on flaring tools etc which I could buy but haven't really done pipes before.. (fairly competent on other stuff)

Checked island and rimmerbros who seem to have flexi hoses and front to rear pipes.. is it fairly easy to use those ones or do you recommend doing it by running the pipe as suggested in the wiki and other threads here?

Also if someone can give me tips on how I can avoid air getting into the reservoir.. what can I do?

Rained all day today so could'nt see the driveway to pinpoint the exact its leaking.. will check tomorrow and report back..

I filled the reservoir in and within a space of 2 hours I got the message again

Please advise Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Last edited by scotcruz on 10th Sep 2020 8:33am. Edited 2 times in total

Tip on where to start: "Drive to your local indi garage".

Replacing the brake pipes would be one hell of a job to do on your drive, but not impossible.

Chances are that it wont be a flexible that has gone, but at least one of the rigid pipes (the originals are terrible).

You first need to get the car high enough and safe.
Then after locking suspension etc and removing wheels, the inner wheel arches, under sill plastic covers, front wing grills all need to come off.

I/we started at the right rear and worked round the car from the back to the front. Obvious when you are under the car.

Even on a garage lift I chose copper and made up the pipes rather than preformed items.

Replaced all flexible hoses and hard lines at the same time. The original hard lines simply crumbled to bits when carefully removing them.

I could see that preformed rigid would be an absolute nightmare to thread in if you are at home.

Bleeding, used a powered garage brake bleeder so I'm no help there.

Best of luck, Rich L322 3.6 TDV8 Vogue. 07MY
ML 320 7 Seat full leather etc. (The Black Pearl)

Scotland = MMP in Dundee for sure  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
I use www.glenrands.co.uk Great independent specialist!
--------------------------------------------------

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25799.html will give you a good idea what's involved.

[Edit] Sorry, read your message again and it looks like you may already have seen that. 2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

Thanks all.. sun was finally out in the afternoon so managed to do some inspection.

Rich you were right, it is one of the rigid ones which is badly corroded.

From what I can see (I may be naive) that I can easily replace the front to rear preformed lines to complete the job but looking for pros and cons of this.

Which brings me to the following options:
1- take it to the garage (this would involve get AA to take it to the garage) - what are the costs?
2- replace with preformed rigid pipes from the dealers or island4x4
3- invest in flaring tool, fittings, pipe cutter etc etc

If its option 3,
a) is it the Kunifer 3/16 pipe I need?
b) has anyone ran a line straight from the ABS to the rear (or is it not possible)
c) what Male/Female fittings do I need?
d) alot of the threads and photos I have seen seem to have a joint under the wheel arch, is this because of access issues?
e) do I need to single flare or double flare or bubble?
f) how do you stop the air getting into the system when you take the pipes off?

any advice will be greatly appreciated.

my biggest challenge is the access on the driveway really but if anyone has done it, it will be enough to encourage me to have a go myself. Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Using Joe 90's "how to" post as a guide I replaced the brake pipes myself,
This is my short post:-
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic47629...ake+pipes.

Option 3
a/ I used Saville 90/10 Cupro-Nickel 3/16" tubing (Kunifer is the same stuff).
b/ I didnt run a one-piece line to the rear off side, but added a inline join (see pic). The reason being its a
convoluted path for a continious length to be fed through. i think a few people have done it though.
c/ Just do a survey before you start and buy as required plus loads of spares.
d/Yes
e/ Single Flare (going into abs block and inline connector)
Double Flare (Connecting onto the nose of the flexable brake pipes)
f/ I made up some blanking plugs using short bits of pipe plus fitting with the pipe sealed at one end, the other with the formed end and just screwed them on when i disconnected the brake line.
I did it all on my drive, create a work plan before you start , makes it a lot easier.

Thanks Strider.. I have now built up the confidence to have a go at it myself.

To overcome the challenge of working under on the driveway, I plan to do the rears first.. where I would have to spend most of the time under the car. I plan to run a straight line rather than joins (it may be ambitious) so going to start ordering stuff..

2 questions:

1) Is this flare tool ok? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303643067966
2) whats the difference between 2 way female connection to join a pipe than using a male and female to join a line? Is that not the same thing?

Will report back here.. in the meantime if anyone has more tips, it will be greatly appreciated Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Regarding your questions:-

1/ Not having used or owned one I cant comment as to its suitablity.
This is the one I have, its made by a company called MOPROD. Any well made one should do the job, remember to use the supplied grease, this prevents the pipe from sticking as its formed.



I would suggest however you practice first on a few offcuts before attempting doing a length.

2/ The difference is in the joiner used, the one I used had recessed holes (female) so the pipe ends were formed like a
mushroom. On my RR classic I used a male joiner (pointed each end) so the pipe ends were formed like a funnel.
I have never seen a joiner with different ends, why would you want to use one??.

NB:Remember to put the chosen fitting on the pipe first before forming the pipe end. I speak from experience

Good Luck

Peter

Last edited by Strider on 27th Aug 2020 1:56pm. Edited 1 time in total

I have both styles of kit and I have to agree with Strider that his is the better kit. Rob 05 L322 4.2SC
2016 Discovery 4 Graphite
Lotus Carlton
Ascona 400
Volvo V70R AWD manual
Suzuki 1200 Bandit
Velocette Venom
BMW R80/7
Daimler V8 250
Mini Cooper S Works 2006

those flaring tools linked to by scotcruz a couple of posts ago I have have had a couple off and was unable to get any sort of useable results.

this type however, are excellent and simple to use and are great to get in and flare pipes in-situ

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-FLAR...Sw~gRV3Cdn

Agree with dexion about the tool.

I think with the joiners you meant why use a joiner and not just connect a male and female to make a join, I can't answer your question but have seen both used so perhaps it is just personal preference. 2010 3.6TDV8 Stornoway Grey/ Black interior - gone
2005 4.4V8 (M62) Bonatti Grey/ Parchment interior - gone
1998 4.6HSE Blue/ Cream interior (can't remember exact colours) - gone
1977 White - gone (should have kept)

Thanks Strider, Ascona, Dexion and Drakes.

I have ordered the tool suggested so really appreciate the advice.

Reason why I asked about the joiner: I read in one of the threads here to never use male and female to join two pipes/tubes so wanted to clarify that I understood correctly.

If a male and female works then Im cool, just wanted expert advice. For example when I am running the crossover pipe to offside (above the tank etc) how do I connect the pipe from front (Like Strider did) in his. It using the female joiner with two male fittings at both ends personal preference? or could you get away with using a male and female?

Pete - was it 1.5 litre fluid to bleed per wheel or the whole system? How much brake fluid do I need? Also Joe's thread mentioned 20PSI wasn't good for the rears.. any tips on that?

thanks in advance guys Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

I went a bit OTT regarding bleeding the brakes and did the whole system twice so think I used about 5-6 litres in total (got a good deal from local motor factors).

Cant find where Joe 90 said 20 psi wasnt good, but he is right it does take a while for the fluid to flow out of rear bleed nipples. Cant remember what pressure I used think it was close to 20 psi though.

NB: When you do it it will surprise you how rotten the lines have got, (the car had only done 52,635 inland). The one across the rear L to R wheel crumbled when bent in half, pretty disgusting for a quality 4x4. (considering a 25ft roll of Cupra-Nickel pipe was only about £26)
Peter

Ok, so stripped down everything today to prepare my plan of action while the parts arrive.

My plan A was to replace the RR and LR lines straight from the ABS pump. However having seen the condition of the pipes upto the wheel arch and the fact the ABS pump is on the driver side (I kept thinking it was on the passenger side) I now have a plan B.

I now plan to replace the RR and RL line from under the wheel arch (see photo) using a copper nickel tube. I have the plan laid out in my head so feel pretty confident doing it (thanks to everyone's advice here cheers Pete and Joe)

Click image to enlarge

... is it the 10mm long or short male fittings? Can I use the existing fittings or is it best to replace them? Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC