2017 L405 I purchased the car with around 44,000 miles on the clock and a full Land Rover service history. After a few hundred miles and on a long motorway run the engine management light came on, it went off again a couple of days later. I took it to an independent Range Rover but the light wasn’t on, they cleared the historic codes and told me to come back if it came on again as they could not diagnose anything wrong. A few days later the light came back on then not long after the yellow warning saying the DPF needed cleaning and to drive at 40mph for 20 mins, after driving for a few minutes I got a green message saying exhaust clean successful. Engine light was on and off intermittently I then got DPF full and restricted power mode. I had to call out a local DPF cleaner who managed to reset the engine fault codes and get it to a partial regeneration. This seemed to solve the issue for a few weeks (engine warning light did come on and off a few times) I have now started to get the yellow warning message saying I need to clean the DPF I try to get it on a motorway and it runs for a few minutes before it says the clean is complete. The engine warning light is still on as we speak … any ideas?

Back to independent to read codes. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

agree with Dr Rob

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

If you've only just bought it then I'd reject it Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

It’s a V6, perhaps an oil dilution issue? It’s a known problem

Sounds like an ideal candidate to return it to where you bought it and walk away!

Do you do short journeys?

Time to rethink if diesel vehicle is for you.

One post and.....gone!  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

might be still recovering from to much sherry on xmas day... ... - .- -.




click link for ,

FORUM WIKI

HOW TO Ǝꓕ∀ꓕOꓤ PICS

workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

DrRob wrote:

One post and.....gone!

jackcramerr wrote:

Do you do short journeys?

Time to rethink if diesel vehicle is for you.

Right, I will give you the benefit of my experience to date (2011 TDV8). Any of these may be relevant or not.

You need the codes read, but do not take them to be the gospel truth as to the fault, as there are some "ghost" codes which always are always there but don't need fixing or removing.

Firstly I suspect you have an air leak somewhere (possibly top "doughnut" hoses or inlet manifold - mine was running perfectly for 2 1/2 years before I got the yellow/Red DPF/RP etc and it was the pax side Inlet manifold (replaced for £1600) which is renowned for cracking on these and Jag cars, only a hairline but enough to upset the engine running properly. This will cause your DPF to fill no matter how many times you get it cleaned. You must fix the leak. It is unlikely that your DPF is kaputt so don't go chopping it off or paying for expensive cleans.

Step 1. Get codes read.
Step Two. Get a HIGH Pressure smoke test done. This will identify any leaks (it must be high pressure or else it may not show)
Step 3. Do a search on here and read all the posts ref DPF.
step 4. Buy/Borrow an IID tool to read your own Live values (this is what the car ECU reports when running). This will show if your DPF sensors are working or not and will show if you are getting proper Regens when within the parameters (more than a 1/4 tank of fuel/more than 40 mph/on cruise control/trip around 10-20 miles.
Step 5. Check your oil dilution factor in live values and if over 7 then get an oil change.
Step 6. Take out to a reputable LR specialist indie. Avoid Main dealers they will just look at their computers and try to sell an irrelevant "cure" (see below)
Step 7. Get them to monitor the interior engine temps whilst loading the engine. These engines do not run very warm very easily and a low temp will inhibit the DPF from Regenning, so it will attempt it over and over again as the DPF is saying "I'm getting full and need a burn off" but the ECU will not allow it as the engine and exhaust temps will be too low to allow it.

If you are not regenning properly (mine was attempting regens all the time, thousands at once, but never achieving Conclusion/success/Climax, despite a new inlet Mani, because someone had damaged the thermostat housing and the engine was over-reading the temps and trying to cool it all the time.

A new thermostat and inlet manifold has cured all my probs and she is now running perfectly. But it took a specialist Land Rover indie to identify it. Neither official LR franchise nor Main Dealer had a clue (The latter tried to fob me off with "We need to do the Turbo Drain mod (IT'S Nothing to do with DPF and £900 to boot!! also mine had already had it done anyway!!).

So let's see how you get on. Please report back when you have done some diagnosis and then there's a lot of good folks on here who will help you take it further if required.

These are just some of the readings you need to monitor for DPF.

Click image to enlarge

Great post Dolphinboy, very interesting! Having a reference point for those values is super useful, ta!

numagoo wrote:

DrRob wrote:

One post and.....gone!

Wow give a guy a chance..

Sorry, please accept my apologies

I recommended T&S Norman in Somerset to Dolphinboy who found the thermostat fault. The thermostat issue has added to the body of knowledge on here
Take it there if you can maybe...?
High pressure smoke test is a must. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Dolphinboy many thanks for your detailed post.. i will be on with your suggestions!

Last night i contacted a local mobile mechanic with a view to him coming out, clearing the codes and getting to do a forced regeneration (like last time) which would buy me some time and get me back up to Manchester in normal mode so i can get it in to the independent garage i know. They have mentioned a possible issue with the fuel injector? does anyone haven any thoughts on this being a possible cause?

Many Thanks

Last edited by numagoo on 27th Dec 2020 1:28pm. Edited 1 time in total