If it’s an every day issue I’d just open the door cards and get it sorted properly

I don’t have the issue at the moment as mine is indoor in a warm garage. Problem is that it is not my garage 🤣 A year on and I’m finally a proper Range Rover owner which makes doors nor opening/shutting seem like nothing.

Mine is in a for a service but had a few cautions;
1. Crack in CV gaitor
2. Disc back guard corroded and flapping.
3. Number plate bulbs not working
4. One LED gone from third brake light.
5. Rear pads destroyed by heat, as risk of totally to be broken up
6. Slight judder at front braking.
7. Vacuum hoses brittle and split.
8. Super charger has play in that spring loaded thingy
9. Chasing a persistent but not yet found coolant leak.

All I did was book it in for a service, and asked them to investigate the coolant leak and suspected sticky callipers. 🤣

And of course after that is sorted then I still have those door locks with a mind of it’s own and one rear seat for which the base doesn’t lock and thus the seat back can’t go up. Everyone who warned me about a Range Rover was totally right.

Ah well, I got to have it fixed, as then I’m going for the lower and upper pulleys with a remap 😜😍

I'm sorry to say but the points you have listed are in my opinion typical signs for a low maintained vehicle.

If one takes some care he can avoid most of the problems you listed.

I bet we have colder temps here in Switzerland then you do in the Netherlands, I spend my winter vacation in Areas where nighttime temp is always around -15° to -20° Celsius but never ever had a frozen door lock. There are some sprays out in the market you can spray your door lock every once in a while, use Gummipflege on the rubbers and most important; wash your car sometimes with a pressure washer! Drive-thru-washer don’t get the dirt and salt out of the wheel arches and other delicate places which result in sticky calipers and rusty disc back guards and so on.

Seat heating is a well-known issue on many other cars too, at least for the heated/cooled seats, this is one thing a had to fix also. Easy fix.

Windscreen heater not working…. this could be a weak battery, if power is low it may not heat to save energy, same as with the FBH.

Mine is a 2010MY too but none of the mentioned troubles so far. Except for low battery after excessive use of windscreen-, seat- and steering wheel-heater and every morning and evening FBH.
On weekends I plug the CTek in to avoid non-working goodies during weekdays.

Come-on, lightbulbs not working on a 10+ year-old car...who you want to blame for that?

As Stan said; these shouldn't be the kind of problems that a high-end vehicle should have but you can do a lot to stay out of these kinds of problems and look around, other makes have same or similar failures.

Or take it easy; It’s not a bug it’s a feature!

Possibly, I've only had the car a year and had it maintained. I'm not sure how you draw the conclusion of it being low maintained.

The solution you offered won't do anything regarding the lock problem, as others have mentioned this is a design problem and requires the door cards to come off to deal with it. You can't do that externally, and no it is not on any service schedule that I've ever seen

LOL My car is never ever going through a drive through car wash. No idea where that point comes from. Heck even pressure washing isn't good for it or any car unless you know what you are doing. But again has nothing to do with low maintenance or the problems listed.

Please do share how to fix seat heating that works perfectly one day, and decides to do nothing another day, and so on. That would be awesome.

Windscreen heater not fully working one day but does the other, weak battery? Interesting, even when the car and engine is running, and voltage is reported as 13.8V by IID?

I wasn't blaming anyone for the lightbulbs not working, just sharing the findings following a service report. I've had a year of pretty much trouble free driving. Not 'complaining' at all about these findings. Only thing I'm complaining about is the stupid door lock/card design. And I stand happily correct if you can show to me where that is listed as a serviceable item

Bl4ckD0g wrote:

You can't do that externally, and no it is not on any service schedule that I've ever seen

Yes, you can. You can drill the hole in door where the latch is, seriously I have seen it. Didn't understand what for and why, before I had to deal with freezing door latch mechanism.
Depending what lubricate/grease you use, it will last for years. Removing entire mechanism and servicing it will give even better and longer lasting result. There is always possibility to order new one.
If the temps are not around 0, you will not have this problem ever. Worst what can happen is broken handle cable

LOL Didn’t realise I had to phrase it that specifically; naturally I meant without drilling holes or cutting pieces of metal out of the door 🤣

Just had the same issue. 5am an door froze. Once opened I couldn’t shut it and was on the side of the road which is super busy. Had to remove the door card and loosen the lock bolts to close the door. Took it to Landrover who deemed it a damage lock and replaced it £439 later it’s back but I have my doubts. Wish I had read This thread before

Sounds like they had you over a bit Peter!!

If you do open your door and can't close it, get in, Pull it to and then use the central locking button on the dash (below the hazard switch) to lock it (sorry if that's been mentioned before).

@Bl4ckD0g
I did not say that you are the one with the low maintaining, you own the FF for one year but you don’t really know how well it was maintained the 10 years before. And yes, it’s all about that.
I do understand that Gummipflege is not solving the issue you experience with your doors but it’s part of going trouble free thru the winter. As for the locking mechanism use some e.g WD40 Antifriction Dry PTFE Spray. It will last for years.
You can find several Threads here in this forum about seat-heating repair. What is your IID reading regrading climate-seat?
It took me about on hour or two to take the driver-seat out, change the Peltier element in the bottom and repair the cracked duct in the backrest and put the seat back in and never had the problem of sometimes heating and sometimes doesn’t since.
There you go: 13.8V with engine running is too low! Should be 14+, mine is reading 14.26V and sometimes even higher! IIDTool and CTEK Battery sense Monitor, both the same. Low voltage is leading to many issues with this diva.
First thing I would do is to check the Alternator, wires and connectors, check the output too. Check the battery with a Voltmeter that can simulate the cranking-draw. Something like this: https://www.amazon.de/DONGMAO-Autobatterie...B07KDRMFCJ
With a car packed full with electronics like the FF, a battery in top condition is mandatory.

Sorry the fix i applied to mine was on the cables internal on the door that actuate the door mechanism and there is no way that can be done without taking the door cards. it was -7 here the other night and my fix seems to have worked got in the car the next morning -6 door opened and closed no issues.

the problem Bl4ckd0g describes is the moisture inside the cable outer freezing stopping the cable operating, i mentioned earlier in the post it is a common problem on pushbikes!!

these cables wear and stretch over time which is why the problem seems to affect the drivers door most of the time as that is the door most commonly used passenger doors not so so the cables are not stretched or as worn.

The proper fix is to replace the cables which i will do in the summer on a nice lazy hot afternoon  2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

thanks jayk69 that is exactly it. And I'll be doing the same...