Hi, the valve is normally open (de-energised with no current passing to it) when the engine is running. The valve should only be energised (i.e. have current running through it) when the engine is switched off and the FFBH is running. If you disconnect the wiring to the valve, the solenoid should be open and a flow of coolant should always be found through the valve from the engine through to the outlet of the valve, as shown in the picture:




The two pictures below show the circuit when operating with the engine running (Picture 1) and when only the FFBH is running (Picture 2) with the engine switched off.

Oops smt not right with mine.
With no electric we have no flow.
When operated needle goes forward sits on the seal under it and flow starts from upper side of the needle.

Click image to enlarge

I had some leak due to my mistake so i deleted the post sorry... 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Last edited by umitbat on 20th Oct 2021 11:03am. Edited 1 time in total

I connected all hoses on the replacement valve with a T connector.
Heating is great!!!
The valve has no flow from neither sides without current so smt is wrong there.

I think this seal is swollen.
New ones are really flat.

I flattened the swollen part now flow is there from the lower inlet that is taking water from the engine, open de-energised.
Upper inlet opens if fbh kicks in to heat inside does not take water from engine. Diagram in previous page.
 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Last edited by umitbat on 20th Oct 2021 1:27pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hi,
Just received my new Changeover valve today and checked it by blowing through the openings.
The original picture I posted on page 2 of this thread is correct, the bottom connection is the hot coolant supply from the engine and the upper left opening is the coolant supply from the FFBH. The picture I posted further up this page is incorrect, as I had taken the information from the other thread you had referenced and thought I had got my original picture wrong. The correct routing is as in the picture below:




I've managed to double check this, as I connected just the new solenoid valve to the electrics and started the engine, then blew through the bottom opening and sure enough there was airflow through the valve. If the FFBH had started up I wouldn't have been able to blow air through the bottom opening, only the top opening.
This new valve that I've got is a perfect replacement for the changeover valve, and will mount directly to the existing bracket with the two screws on the back of the bracket.
I'm glad to hear that you got heat by bypassing the valve with the tee piece. You may be able to get a repair kit to replace the bottom seal in the valve, would be much cheaper than getting a new valve.

Great news at last!!!!

U mentioned a repair kit was not correct. Which one was it? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

I'm just doing a little bit of double checking myself, as there are two plunger seals in the valve. There is the one that you can see in your photos, the one that was swollen and you flattened, then there is one in the bottom of the valve.
I think the seals should be identical but need to check, as it is best to replace them both, as well as any o-rings and possibly the solenoid membrane seal.
I can't quite see how to remove the solenoid from the plunger, so just doing some checking. I'll get back to you once I've got a definitive answer.

Ideally you want to get a repair kit like this, with two rubber seals, o-rings and membrane seal. You don't need the plunger, as yours will be different to those shown on the kits and your plunger should be okay to reuse.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173109702770?_t...%3A2334524

EDIT:
FORGET THE ABOVE INFORMATION ON THE SEAL KIT.

My replacement valve came this afternoon, part No. LR016848, so I set to and took my old valve out. The new and old valves are the same, absolutely identical even down to the Land Rover serial number (AH22 188506 BA). Swapped the bracket off the old valve onto the new valve, reinstalled into the FFRR and everything is now toasty warm!!
Have just been trying to disassemble the old valve and have noted that there is no seemingly easy way to get the rubber seal out past the plunger as can't seem to dismantle the plunger. There was also some water dripped out of the solenoid housing.
The seal in the bottom part of the valve is a totally different type to any I've seen on the repair kits, it seems to be sandwiched below a plastic sleeve insert in the bore of the valve. How it comes out is anybody's guess. This will explain though why LR charge a fortune for this single solenoid valve.
There's not much electrickery to these valves, so if you have to replace it, I would suggest maybe taking a punt on the 'cheap' chinese valves advertised. After all, this new valve that I got (which has LR branding on and came in an LR Box) was probably also made in China by the same people who are selling the cheap ones!

Probably it is pinned inside each other and they are pretty welded.
Videos of double ones being dismantled shows u need some force to take plunger apart.
Plunger in repair kit is too simple just a pin. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Hi again.
I connected three hoses with a T.
Bu i think what must be done is connecting the red line from engine to purple line and blinding the blue line from the end it connects to the valve so the cold water from matrix can go straight to the engine.

Click image to enlarge

Is it normal that the turbo hoses are cold?
I don’t remember them so distinctively cold. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

It shouldn't cause any problems leaving the tee piece connected as you have done, you don't need to blank off any lines as the coolant will circulate normally round the system, regardless of the bypass of the valve. The only difference in blanking the FFBH return line into the valve will be that all the coolant circulates through the engine.
I assume you are referring to the inlet hoses to the turbo, the ones connected from the intercooler to the turbo inlet manifold. If so, then yes they should be cold (or as cool as possible), as the air feed into the turbos needs to be cooled (by the intercooler) to maximise the amount of air fed into the engine.

If you feel the need to blank off any line, then blank off the top left hose into the valve, as shown on the picture and connect the hot coolant line from the engine into the outlet line from the valve.

Click image to enlarge

Yes those two.
But I remember a while ago them being so hot I wasn’t even able to touch them.
And right one blew twice.
Now both cool,i wonder if i had a clogged radiator before i flushed coolant.
 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k