Sounds the easy start ignited in the inter cooler or pipework.

It’d be interesting to remove the air filter housing and hold a piece of paper to the air intake. I’m intrigued to know if it’s sucking or blowing. If the easy start didn’t reach the engine I wonder if it’s possible there’s compression pushing it’s way out of the intake and stopping the easy start reaching the cylinders.

One other pointer… you don’t need much easy start. A short squirt should be plenty and if you want to try and keep it running repeated short squirts rather then a continual squirt is the way to do it.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Have you removed the oil filter and checked to see if it is contaminated with metal filings or removed sump plug and check oil for the same

Quote:

Have you removed the oil filter and checked to see if it is contaminated with metal filings or removed sump plug and check oil for the same

OK now you have had it cranking with a new filter remove the new filter and have a look at it, Have you tried contacting the previous owner to see if they can give you any idea, I'm convinced you have a mechanical internal engine issue think at this point I would get access to the crank pulley so I could turn it by hand and feel it manually turning

I still think this is simply a fuelling issue. Plenty of evidence from previous attempts that the engine turns over freely enough. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

PeterRRVogue wrote:

I also noticed that the 'engine speed' wasn't changing (crank sensor fault?).

Right guys, so after another week attempting to record the cranking while watching the live values of the fuel pressure and rpm with the IID tool (without a success), I discovered that I somehow had managed to blow the 400A MEGA fuse again. So I replaced the second blown fuse and I finally managed to make it crank. This time the Engine speed was showing values (unlike the last time).

You need to check the crankshaft/camshaft timing and or sensors. It appears to be spitting compression out of the inlet manifold as already proved with the easy start blowing the hose off. It almost sounded like it was getting near starting. 2012, FFRR Westminster TDV8 - Orkney Grey
2003, FFRR Vogue TD6 - Zambezi Silver
IIDBT

To me that sounds like it has an internal fault as the crank speed slows and make a screech noise at same time l suspect it has been overheated or run short of oil

Just 1 look at the oil filter confirms that! 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

That engine really doesn't sound healthy.

Without being a massive pessimist, I think you're wasting your time throwing parts, time, fuses, etc. at it.

Listening to it and looking at the state of that oil filter tells me that there are internal issues in that engine and it's going to require stripping and rebuilding.

Is there any service history with it? Do you know when the oil was last changed? (If it ever was!?)

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

I agree with the previous posts I'm afraid. With the look of that filter and the horrible screeching sound it's a waste of time doing anything else to that engine.
How much did you pay for the car?

I know we are all throwing our 2p theories at this car, and I have throw a few in myself... but from what I can make out, its now turning freely, , unlike at the beginning.. and its cranking a quite a speed. enough to start it and run. so the seize may have been a gamble, on either the crank bearings, or the piston to bore... or both. but I think we have ruled out a thrown con rod. you seem to have compression, on most of the bores, but the one(s) that have low compression, are throwing back that compression, (audibly) either to the crankcase, or the inlet... which explains the Big Bang when the easy-start popped the hose etc. its slightly odd that there's not enough fuel in the remaining good cylinders to fire it, all be it roughly... so we have an engine with poor compression. and we need to know if there is any damage that is visually checkable, before the process of removing the engine, or just the head(s). so I think you need to invest in either a DIY compression tester, and a cheap borescope, (laptop type) and go down the route of removing the injectors, and looking at the bores, in the low compression cylinders... and going from there. -maybe ask a few diesel fitter type garages if they have a mechanic that can do this for you, as good equipment will show it better, and you probably wont get much use from DIY equipment after. you have achieved something, and need to make a conscious decision where to spend some time, and money. some of the above comments about wasting time etc... are not helping, when you know that a new engine is £9000, and secondhand ones are half that at least, plus a huge job to changeout, and code in. if you can see for yourself any bore damage, or eliminate bore damage, and concentrate on heads, I think its time well spent. with the condition of the oil, im thinking a bore seize, modern engines have under-piston oil jets that cool the piston... these may have been compromised. -possibly the bearings too. but fixable... but needing engine removal
edit... if you remove the oil cap and place palm of hand over the hole, and crank it, are you feeling wafts/pulses of air coming out? meaning blow-by on the piston rings etc. in timing with the seeming pulses on cranking. where 7 fire, and one 'sounds-off' etc.

Last edited by johnboyairey on 20th May 2022 9:47pm. Edited 1 time in total

I have just had a listen to the videos again and just seen the state of the oil filter which looking at that will have caused oil starvation which has damaged the engine internally and possibly first failure was the turbo and bit of the turbo have been sucked in thus engine is goosed

I notice from an earlier post you made you bought it from auction if it is the well know salvage auction people then they would have known the fault and possibly an insurance claim has been made on the car due to terminal engine failure

Might be worth contacting the previous owner if possible

Regards
Dave

I thought that the noise that was coincidental with slower turning sounded like metal on metal scraping or binding, as though something gets very tight at a particular rotation of the crankshaft such as a piston when it gets to a particular spot in the bore.