JayGee wrote:

Can anyone explain by what physical process a mechanical system will last longer by subjecting it to more stress?
Should I drive faster, accelerate harder or for more miles to increase the lifespan of the engine, suspension, brakes etc…….

JayGee wrote:

Can anyone explain by what physical process a mechanical system will last longer by subjecting it to more stress?
Should I drive faster, accelerate harder or for more miles to increase the lifespan of the engine, suspension, brakes etc…….

DrRob wrote:

Agreed. Open the taps for that second turbo to clear its guts...I do it regularly once engine up to temp.

Please accept my apologies if I came over as rude as this was not my intention at all. However I'm not convinced by the need to suddenly torque load my geartrain by engaging the 2nd turbo every trip on a 10yr old car approaching 150k miles. AFAIK the oil buildup in the 2nd turbo is on the exhaust side as when it 'blows' the smoke is white/ grey so it's not going through the engine intake and being burnt (it would be blue) and furthermore this turbo bypasses the DPF so it's not adding to ash build-up. Diesel generators are not like automotive engines as they are designed to run at steady loads and unless you are towing constantly or driving up a hill indefinitely or doing very high speed autobahn runs it's impossible to subject these engines to steady high loads and I suspect they will be designed around light load use. On Petrol engines heat generated by hard acceleration was/ is certainly a way of burning of carbon fouling on plugs and maybe exhaust valves but I'm not at all convinced this applies to modem diesel engines. Furthermore high power generation on diesel is achieved by increasing the fuel / air ratio so you are also increasing the likelihood of creating more not less soot and therefore more deposits. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

I don't understand how the second turbo dose not blow into the inlet manifold and does not go through the dpf. Surely everything goes through the dpf?

I was wrong and it just bypasses the CAT. The oil likley accumulates mainly on the exhaust side of the turbine and am only going on smoke colour - white grey is oil vapour from and blue is oil smoke from it being combusted in the cylinders. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I just know it doesn’t smoke if I give it the odd blast… doesn’t have to be balls out…

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

You'd be surprised at how much load variation there is on generation sets, if it was all fixed load then they wouldn't need turbos. There is also an issue with transient phase imbalance causing instability which can do real physical damage. Anyway, back to keeping the second turbo active - just use your gears, nobody is saying you need to cane the life out of it just work it sufficiently to get the engine core temperature up and it will help not just the turbo but also burn off some of the carbon deposits.
BTW, carbon deposits in a petrol engine are usually due to overfuelling, in a diesel, they're usually due to low combustion temperatures.

Not sure I understand how to use the gears to get the engine 'core temperature' up as this must be governed by load not RPM and the combustion temperatures are also kept low by the EGR valve which is open most of the time. To get the 2nd turbo going you do actually have to cane it some. Just done 1800miles around the UK and Ireland on a mixture of roads and gradients and never went into the 2nd turbo. Max torque ( 700nm) is achieved at 1500rpm and there's plenty of poke for sensible overtaking manoeuvres under 2500rpm. Each to their own but I'll carry on as I have been doing  2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

It's a very "Marmite" subject, each to their own, just do whatever makes you feel right...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Ok, I'll google what the heck is "Marmite" ... "it needs some intelligence to undestand you may not have enough"

Marmite--- You either Love it or Hate it 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

JayGee wrote:

Not sure I understand how to use the gears to get the engine 'core temperature' up as this must be governed by load not RPM and the combustion temperatures are also kept low by the EGR valve which is open most of the time. To get the 2nd turbo going you do actually have to cane it some. Just done 1800miles around the UK and Ireland on a mixture of roads and gradients and never went into the 2nd turbo. Max torque ( 700nm) is achieved at 1500rpm and there's plenty of poke for sensible overtaking manoeuvres under 2500rpm. Each to their own but I'll carry on as I have been doing

Don’t use the 2nd turbo so no need to clear it . If I did ever need it then it would clear itself (sorry in advance to anyone who is behind me……)
To burn off or clear carbon buildup in an engine would need sustained high load and not the occasional burst of revs. This is my question about the advice to use the gears to get the cord temperature up - is it using the command shift to drive around for a while at >2500rpm? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)