My rear right window doesn't want to stay shut and keeps rolling down by itself.

The local switch does nothing when operated.

If I activate the child safe on the master switch cluster, I can operate both rear windows normally, remotely from there.

Deactivating the child safe will cause the window to roll down again, right away.

I've read a thread with a similar case where the problem turned out to be a faulty local switch. I've taken apart mine and didn't see anything obviously wrong with it.

I've tried removing the switch altogether and the window will not roll down by itself.

I've tried re-connecting the switch both after a cleaning and completely dismantled, with the inner rubber pad contacts removed and the window will instantly roll down by itself.

While the switch is removed and child safe deactivated, I get seemingly random clicking sounds from the relay in the left rear door.

The left rear switch seems to be working normally though. But the only way to stop the clicking sounds is to enable child safe from the master panel.

Am I barking up the wrong tree suspecting the right side switch or is the clicking when it's missing, part of some self-testing in perpetual search of the disconnected switch?

I am not getting any fault codes on the IID tool btw...

Thanks in advance for any input

PS / Update: swapped left/right switch and problem moved with the switch. The same is true for the relay noises mentioned above, as well. Picking up a used switch from the breakers tomorrow and will report back

Last edited by vs322 on 21st Dec 2022 5:11pm. Edited 1 time in total

Update:

New switch seems to have cured the problem but I'm still getting random clicking from the rear door relays although there's no unintended movement of any window. Clicking ceases as soon as I activate the child safe from the master panel.
As I haven't fitted either side switch back in position, just plugged them in, I'll give them a good cleaning with an electrical contact cleaner and see if this helps.

I had exactly this issue a month or so back, brought a replacement switch from the internet (second hand) and that seems to have cured it.

just wondering if the contacts are intermittently bad on the loom or the switch is iffy even though you say you've cleaned it. As you say it could be the vehicle doing the self checks causing the relay issues (to clever for their own good these vehicles)

Regarding the failed switch, I tend to believe it's the terminals inside it that have made contact with ground due to corrosion.
Perhaps the 2nd hand one has its own corrosion issues too or it could be the left one beginning to fail as well...Clicking became less frequent over the 40 minute commute to work. Will see if it goes away after a full cycle or two.
At this point I have normally functioning rear windows both locally and remotely, with the only observation being the random clicking when child safe is disabled, which seems to have no effect on the windows position, be it fully up, fully down or anywhere in between.

fingers crossed you've cured it obviously until the next thing

Oh the joys of JLR products ownership

I would also look at the anti trap wires.

I thought about the anti trap strips but the clicking only occurs when the child safe is disabled. Windows roll up and down normally after the switch replacement.

So, my rear left window switch finally also failed for good.

Could not obtain another one from the breakers so I decided to open the right one up for an autopsy. The initial cleaning had not cured the problem so further investigation would be in order.

Stripping the switch is very easy by first pushing in 4 tabs and pulling the casing apart. Then removing the innards.

After removing the sliding top and the membrane, it's just a matter of pulling the contacts board off the casing.

Some surface tarnishing does not seem enough to cause a short but alas, looks can be deceiving.

On the contacts board, a LED and a resistor are attached. These are just for the night illumination but I would imagine that their contact points can short as well, which would explain some unexpected window behavior with the lights on, mentioned somewhere.

All you need is a pencil eraser, some penetrating oil or WD40 or equivalent, a few sheets of kitchen paper and, ideally, a magnifying glass. Photos are pretty much self-explanatory.

This is the LEFT switch, which also had some spider web in it. I am surprised how both sides failed within a couple days...

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Excellent job. Saved some money there and you know your fix should be good.

Suppose we are going to get a few of these types of issues as the L322s get older.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Thanks, yes it actually took me two attempts to get the cleaning just right. It takes some persistence with the eraser at the bottom part of the contacts board. But if I can do this, anyone can Definitely worth a try. New part comes at €150 (goes together with the plastic trim). I'd rather spend that kind of money elsewhere...

Good job, thanks for the write up ! TDV8 4.4 2012

glad your sorted mate, nice to see these things are repairable given a bit of thought and time rather than just throwing money at issues