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johnboyairey



Member Since: 11 Jan 2013
Location: surrey
Posts: 2035

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

Faukstad wrote:
johnboyairey wrote:
if you had an iid tool, you can do a forced regen, and set up the phone to monitor the parameters that the car needs to carry one out. ie you can see the soot levels, and engine temp, and speed. and by glancing periodically you will notice the soot level start falling. therefore maintaining the 25 mph will see it complete. also, remember that you need more than 1/4 tank of fuel for it to start. i had a red alarm, and used this method to get it to clear. ever since, when i get the amber, i go for the drive, and it clears. all without need for the tool.


I hadn't read the last part of your post...
How did you manage to get it driveable (to do the regen) when it had the red warning?
Mine's in restricted performance and won't let me get "carried away"...
I pulled up some live values on the IID when I got back home though, and noticed exhaust temps were climbling past 500 degC when it parked it.
I wasn't sure this was a good thing (hadn't studied DPF regen procedures or parameters before this happened) so I switched it off, thinking the temperature was too high because of a blocked DPF. Plus I was mega stressed because I had to catch a train to go offshore....


so when i bought mine, i went to drive it home 100 miles, and within 1 mile of the seller, it went yellow, and red within a couple of minutes. i didn't have an iid tool, and no hand tools either. so got it on the motorway, and could only get to about 50mph max, so sat there cruising for about 40 mins, and pulled into service station. checked everything for obvious things, went back to car after a coffee, and it was clear, and back to normal. since then i got a similar red from amber after idling in town traffic all day. and went along the iid tool route. but i have to say there is a lot of info which helps, and some that doesn't. the thing is, you don't need high revs, you just need mild constant speed, as all you need is air passing under the car, to cool the high heat generated. so around 30mph, and engine warm... it works out that you are cruising at constant speed, and drops into regen mode. normally it takes about 20 mins, and automatically turns off the red/amber light. i know its hard to have confidence in driving with restricted performance, but is worth trying, if you can have someone follow you in case things go worse...


Hmm... Maybe I'm not in as bad a place as I initially thought then.

Post #651546 23rd Dec 2022 3:19pm
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JayGee



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: London
Posts: 3283

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Orkney Grey

Once it’s telling you to go to the dealer it won’t regen without forcing it with either the GAP tool or dealer software. My concern is how it got to that state of soot load so I’d be looking for faulty sensors and intake air leaks as well. The system is pretty good at managing soot and not letting it get to this stage unless there is another factor. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Post #651554 23rd Dec 2022 4:26pm
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Faukstad



Member Since: 27 Dec 2021
Location: Oppland
Posts: 66

Norway 2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

Update from the workshop:
-After a couple of hours in the plus zero degree wokshop the air suspension has returned to life. (I suspect some sort of moisture blockage either in the compressor og valves, will be changed upgraded when it's possible to work on the car)
-Forced regen/reset not successful, but tomorrow the mechanic will try DPF cleaner fluid, and he's positive since it's not completely plugged.
I'll give you guys another update tomorrow.

Post #651839 28th Dec 2022 7:23pm
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Faukstad



Member Since: 27 Dec 2021
Location: Oppland
Posts: 66

Norway 2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

JayGee wrote:
Once it’s telling you to go to the dealer it won’t regen without forcing it with either the GAP tool or dealer software. My concern is how it got to that state of soot load so I’d be looking for faulty sensors and intake air leaks as well. The system is pretty good at managing soot and not letting it get to this stage unless there is another factor.


I agree.
I think the excessive idling in sub freezing temperatures is the culprit though.

If the mechanic is unsuccessful opening up the DPF tomorrow I'll probably remove the guts of the DPF when I'm back from work.

Post #651840 28th Dec 2022 7:25pm
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JayGee



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: London
Posts: 3283

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Orkney Grey

I wouldn’t gut the DPF. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Post #651871 29th Dec 2022 2:19am
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Faukstad



Member Since: 27 Dec 2021
Location: Oppland
Posts: 66

Norway 2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

Didn't have to! Thank god...

He loaded it full of DPF cleaner fluid, let it soak and fired it up.
Then had to drive 50 kms to burn off all the soot.
Clean as a whistle and pulls like a tank again now. (Quote the mechanic).

That was a very close call, but I'm a wiser man now.
-No more idling to warm up the car in sub-freezing temperatures.
-Keep an eye on soot accumulation with the IID tool.
-Update my IID-tool.
-Change oil, filters etc. (It hasn't been serviced for THREE years).

Post #651983 29th Dec 2022 9:05pm
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JayGee



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: London
Posts: 3283

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Orkney Grey

I doubt excessive idling would do it as you are not using much fuel. Why has it not had a service for that long and how many Km's in that time? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Post #651984 29th Dec 2022 9:11pm
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Faukstad



Member Since: 27 Dec 2021
Location: Oppland
Posts: 66

Norway 2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

I just recently got the car, it was an import from Germany.
I can't remember how many kms it's done, but it's not much. I guess the last owner was a bit sloppy with his servicing...
The last year it's basically been just sitting in my driveway waiting for import clearance.
I've got all the bits and bobs (and liquids) to do a proper big service on it now though.

City driving and excessive idling has been listed as one of the (main) culprits in a wiki post I found here on the site.
It had been idling for 45-60 minutes three-four times a day for about a week.
Believe me, it burns fuel even at idle....

Post #651985 29th Dec 2022 9:16pm
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Phoenix



Member Since: 16 May 2022
Location: Gone
Posts: 1631

United Kingdom 

Excessive idling (in traffic or warming up) along with short, low temperature journeys does indeed build up a lot of soot, it's a 'regen moneyspinner' for us.
There simply isn't enough heat in the engine or exhaust to complete the combustion cycle, low ambient also means more fuel is being pushed into each cylinder to counteract the reluctance of the cold air to combust - I know there is a higher oxygen density in some circumstances but cold, wet air means more fuel so 'just enough' of it will fully combust to provide smooth running.

Post #651987 29th Dec 2022 9:19pm
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