Hi all, quick update:
The engine strip-down is going well — slow, but making steady progress. I'm taking lots of notes and photos as I go. Just wanted to share the current state of it. Leaving it here 😄

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6Ym3shEhBnk

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Just for comparison this was my oil separator after 124k and before cleaning.
Mine might have missed one oil change early in its life as I have a gap in the records.
Has had 5k oil changes in recent times.
Looks quite different from yours!

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Hi,
Quick update on the engine rebuild. I completed the engine disassembly today and removed the crankshaft to inspect the condition of the main bearings.

What I found is a bit puzzling. The conrod bearings are severely worn, as shown in the attached photos. Strangely, the front main bearing had been pushed out of place and was damaged. The surprising part is that the crankshaft journals are undamaged—almost a miracle. I measured the journals and they are within spec.

This raises the question: why was the front main bearing pushed out of place? Could it be due to a bent crankshaft?

I also discovered two broken piston oil jets and crushed tubes in the oil pan—another mystery.

Let’s continue the checks and hope the engine can still be repaired.

Click image to enlarge

Check the front main journal for taper. L405 D350 SE Carpathian Grey D5 19" rims

I suspect the last person who was in there wasn't too good at rebuilding engines! L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Hi 4RRS, read this write up with great interest, I have an identical issue, spun no.3 bearing and now need to follow the rebuild path. Engines out, we can see the damage, luckily this all happened while car was at a standstill, so when it started squeaking then knocking we could turn it off to prevent major damage.

Main question is over crankshaft replacement. Can’t find a genuine and read that the genuine crank in these is just cast. Read a lengthy article by kingtectacing about the cranks in these that’s actually putting me off a genuine replacement (https://kingtecracing.com/blog/detail/forged-vs-cast-why-the-448dt-forged-crankshaft-is-the-best-upgrade)

I can get a forged upgrade online but it’s aftermarket and seen you advise against this. So I’m now between a rock and a hard place as to the best route forwards here so wanted to pick your brains.

Also, what is it about no.3 bearing?! Why is this the one that seems to spin to cut oil supply to the camshaft? Any ideas?

I've just finished assembling my 448DT in a RRS sport. Same thing number 3 main. When we were working on the tunnel. We found when pulling down the main caps the tunnels were distorted. Number 3 the most then number 4. We pulled them down then re cut the tunnel to suit the bearings and get the right crush. After that I assembled and then plastigauge the crank 3 times. 0 degrees. 90 degree and 180 degrees. That will tell you if it's bent. I used king bearings. The clearness were to tight for my liking so I polished the crank until all mains were 2 thou oil clearance, that's not a recommendation. Just what I did.

I did speak with qp engines in UK. They seem really great.. He did warn me off King bearings, but I'm in Australia and didn't have any time. He can supply bearings he told me. If I had more timei would have bought parts off him.

The main bolt tensions on this site seemed to much to me. I didn't go that full on. I used the privati bolts for the measurements and machining then new bolts for the build with ARP thread lube.

I got a second hand crank from TRS in Adelaide at a great price I thought. Seeing as though it's a bearing failure and I've never read about a crank failure I'd only go genuine personally

waltsworth wrote:

Hi 4RRS, read this write up with great interest, I have an identical issue, spun no.3 bearing and now need to follow the rebuild path. Engines out, we can see the damage, luckily this all happened while car was at a standstill, so when it started squeaking then knocking we could turn it off to prevent major damage.

Main question is over crankshaft replacement. Can’t find a genuine and read that the genuine crank in these is just cast. Read a lengthy article by kingtectacing about the cranks in these that’s actually putting me off a genuine replacement (https://kingtecracing.com/blog/detail/forged-vs-cast-why-the-448dt-forged-crankshaft-is-the-best-upgrade)

I can get a forged upgrade online but it’s aftermarket and seen you advise against this. So I’m now between a rock and a hard place as to the best route forwards here so wanted to pick your brains.

Also, what is it about no.3 bearing?! Why is this the one that seems to spin to cut oil supply to the camshaft? Any ideas?