Hi everyone my euro 6 sdv8 has blown up can I get a 2014 4.4 euro 5 and fit in my 2016??? As far as I’m aware the block is same 448dt engine I’m just checking if I’ll have any problems ?? Thanks

Same block, the 448DT goes back to the L322, so any 448DT block can be a donor for a EU6 engine. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Great stuff so is the engine the same as euro 5 and euro 6?? Just the adblu difference??

Pretty much yes, if you need a donor any 448DT will do, all the bottom end is identical.

I used a L322 block and crank for my 2016 rebuild. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

You will need the L405 sump pan,different to L322.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Great thanks guys. So now on the hunt for a block,get new pistons and bearings…not to sure about the repo crankshafts may have to find a good second hand original and then check the sizing. I believe the heads are good on mine just the sump blown and I can see marking on the walls of the pistons.

I've got a spare 448DT block from my 2016 L405 if you're interested, probably best to take it out to first oversize if you want a 100% reliable engine as it had minimal wear and as I bought a complete shortblock assembly, I had a better option.

Definitely find yourself a genuine crank, I wouldn't entertain a reproduction, just not worth it with how much you're going.to outlay building a solid engine. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Nice that’s definitely a starting point getting the block. Sorry if I sound a bit thick but oversize it?? Where’s abouts are you mate? Yes I was looking at trying to get a complete block just ain’t seeing anything.

Well I’ve just a few originals one on eBay but you never really the real size of them. But have seen qponline sell them and I’ve heard good things about that place

I'd suggest having a read through my earlier post here: -

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic68615.html

which covers when my 2016 went bang from a spun big end bearing, it'll give you an insite of what you're up against!

You'll struggle getting a complete bottom end (known as a shortblock) which is basically, a block, crank, con rods and pistons secondhand as the supply just isn't there on the secondhand market as suppliers want to sell the complete engine for 9K plus rather than part them out.

I bought (and still have) a complete genuine shortblock direct from JLR, I paid just under 5K for it and waited nearly 12 months for it (and had rebuilt mine by the time it was available), they have now upped the price to just under 10K, which makes it non cost effective for all but the very last of the L405 SDV8's which still have a decent resale value (I'm still looking for a late registered project car for my shortblock).

Considering your block & pistons are scrap, if you go with a secondhand block it would be best practice to bore it out to the first oversize (25 thou) and fit new pistons which are also 25 thou oversize, (this is the process of increasing the diameter of the cylinder bores marginally to get to new surface material without any defects or scratches or wear, then you compensate for the increase in the bore diameter by fitting slighty larger pistons) that way you have a solid block and pistons with no wear.

It's not good practice to fit new pistons into a block that has any wear whatsoever, as if you did decide to do this you still need to "hone" the bores (which is taking the glaze off the surface of the bores i.e removing the shine, to allow the piston rings to "bed" into the new surface) this process minutely increases the bore size and if the block has any wear then when you fit new pistons and rings they aren't going to seal as well as if the tolerances were as new, this is going to cause the engine to burn oil and possibly more problems with lack of performance etc.

Seeing as you need new pistons anyway, the only extra cost is the reboring, which cost me £50 per bore (£400). Pistons will run you about the same each, so by the time you've got hold of a secondhand block you need to allow circa £800 for new pistons and a rebore.

You'll also need a conrod if yours went through the sump, again I've got some genuine spare ones, but they need to be weighed to get to as close as possible to original for balancing purposes.

Your biggest hurdle is going to be finding a genuine crank, there's a couple on Ebay that have been ground and require oversize bearing shells (similar to the cylinder reboring but the opposite way around). Ideally you want a crank that has both main bearing and big end journals at the original standard sizes as this is going to be the strongest it can be. If you have to go for something that has been ground then the preference would be for standard size big end journals and ground main bearing journals as the main bearings do not take as much stress as the big ends.

Once you have all the bits, then you need to allow for gaskets bolts etc. (there's a definitive list in my post), unfortunately these are not a cheap engine to rebuild if you want to do it properly. I chose this route for mine as opposed to an unknown secondhand engine or a recon unit of which even the best warranties were pitiful as I wanted it to be reliable, 45K miles later and all is good!

If you are interested in the block I am in Telford, Shropshire. I'd serioulsy weigh up the costs before going in feet first as if you are going to have to pay someone to do all the work, then that may make the difference of whether it's financially viable or not.

I'd suggest having a look on Ebay or similar to see what you could hope to sell yours for as is, and then do some maths!

Fell free to shoot me any questions you may have, more than happy to try and help!

regards

Mike L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.