Car decided it didn’t want to start today, first time it’s ever happened. Started fine in the morning as usual, drove 20 minutes to first destination, then after two hours started fine, drove again another 20 minutes to the shop. Once back in the car it wouldn’t start on the button, didn’t even turn over or make a click.

Local landy specialist who is literally over the road came over and jumped it for us, it took 4 goes to get it going.

Came back to it this afternoon and it fired up instantly. Took it out for around 40 min. Looking at the live values, it was saying the battery was 69% charged, after 40 minutes it’s only showing 70% ( I don’t know how reliable the IID data is for this), voltage is showing 14.0v while driving, with a battery current of 2.0 amps. Can anyone let me know if this seems normal? Had a battery supplier out this afternoon who’s tested the battery and says it’s in good condition. Is it looking likely to be the alternator?

Click image to enlarge

I'm no expert, but mine shows 14.4v on the move, dropping to 13.7v when the random 'charging fault' rears its ugly head! 2011MY 4.4TDV8 Autobiography Baltic Blue
TVR Griffith
Alfa Romeo Mito QV

Should be 14v + upto 14.6v but if it drops when you run it with current draw, ie both heated screens on & blowers on and lights then after 20 seconds ish… If it does not recover to charge at high 13v on test I’d bin the Altenator sir…

I see between 14.4 and 14.7v in current weather in my MY11 4.4
In real cold i see up to 15v
When battery management ECU says to alternator to stop charging - then i see 13.7v

Sounds like you have an intermittent fault on a relay
The starter motors on these are known to fail….working intermittently until they completely give up

The fact that it would not even 'click' or 'whirr' suggests to me:

This is going to sound boring, silly and irrelevant but have you checked the 'soundness' of both battery terminals for cleanliness and tightness and also the starter motor connections (relay and main feed)

If all the dashboard lights go dim when trying to start then either the battery or connections would be where I start investigating. If they stay bright but no noises then look downstream from the battery?

I had a problem on my car after fitting a new battery and it was simply down to the negative lead not fully pushed down on the tapered terminal and possibly just not quite tight enough. I always tend to tighten clamps just enough as I had one snap years ago but the taper of the clamps is such that they only provide full area contact when fully pushed down.

If that is not your problem which statistically it won't be then charging at only 2 amps needs looking at as the car will be need to be drawing a whole lot more than that but depending on what the problem is the GAP tool can only report what data it is getting so I would treat the 2 amps with caution. Current: 2003 TD6 HSE
2004 Vogue SE 4.4
Previous: 1993 Classic 3.9

As Steve suggests, I would check and clean connections. Check and clean also the plug connection for the BMS - the little black connector (2 blue wires) attached to the negative battery connection. I did this having first disconnected the negative battery terminal. Following reconnection, perform a BMS reset.

Then go for an extended drive (an hour at least) whilst monitoring the metrics. A good idea also to set (IID) recording on before starting the car. The resulting chart can help considerably in confirming (or otherwise) appropriate charging circuit behaviour.

Consider repeating 2 or 3 times over a couple of days to allow the newly reset BMS to stabilise. Or if you've time a run of say 3 hours in one hit.

Charging voltage given in your screenshot suggests an original BMS. I say this because it appears broadly similar to mine prior to fitting a replacement (a precautionary measure only). Charging current also appears not unreasonable. You may find that it stabilises eventually at zero. Charge state may well not exceed a mid-70s percentage. I don't think mine got above 73%.

My understanding (subject as always to possible correction) is that BMS programming deliberately does not seek to achieve a battery charge state of 100%. 73% or thereabouts is more likely to be achieved - a fuel saving measure on the part of LR.

If still unsatisfactory consider replacing the BMS - a quick and simple task requiring only basic tools. And much less expensive than a new alternator.

Should you opt for this route, expect a different charging profile owing to updated BMS programming. I would draw your attention to the following excellent post made some time ago by forum member Caesium.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post612752...f34#612752

Hope some of this is useful

Warwick 2011 L322 TDV8 A/b Orkney Grey
2008 Defender 90 XS TDCi Java Black
2002 L322 TD6 Vogue Zambezi Silver (gone but not forgotten)
And one or two bikes - Ok, maybe more than one or two....