![]() | Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > 4.4tdv8 oil change - double flush? |
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Rambles Member Since: 16 Apr 2011 Location: UK Posts: 850 ![]() ![]() |
Vacuum pump gets most of it
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JayGee Member Since: 27 Jul 2021 Location: London Posts: 3380 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Did it come with a service history so you know when the last change was? If not and you suspect it's been neglected it may be worth draining from the sump as this may remove any sludge buildup which can't be sucked up through the narrower tube. 2x oil changes per year are usualy sufficient but again if it's been neglected you could fill with the cheapest oil, run it up to temperature and then drain and refill with proper stuff to be sure. Make sure you use C1 grade for the final fill but it doesn't have to be a fancy high performance spec or brand as soot loading and dilution with diesel from DPF regens are the main reasons to change the oil and not any breakdown in the base stock itself unless you are using it for heavy towing or serious off road competition use. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322) |
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GGDR Member Since: 26 Nov 2016 Location: London Posts: 3561 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
which oil are we using at the moment guys?
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JayGee Member Since: 27 Jul 2021 Location: London Posts: 3380 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I use the same or the equivalent from S&A and see no reason to change. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322) |
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Grimreaper Member Since: 27 Apr 2025 Location: Dublin Posts: 5 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi Yes there is good history 13 stamps It'll be my first service so was gonna go belt & braces & was just wondering what the consensus was across the forum about service oil changes Thanks for input |
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Arbuckle Member Since: 11 Nov 2018 Location: Northants Posts: 97 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I concur, twice a year with Smith & Allan 'Momentum' C1. One drained, the other vacuumed. Overkill as I only do 3000 miles a year but cheaper than an unavailable new engine. Forty years of progress. 1972-2012 |
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Fox889 Member Since: 04 Jun 2019 Location: Bury St Edmunds. Suffolk Posts: 701 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Everyone has their “favourite” oil, personally I go for Shell Helix AJ-L especially when Opie do a special. I see you’ve still got your 4.4…….i made a comment, must be six years ago, when I was looking for one as yours is the colour combo I was looking for, you had some cool ‘London’ photos.
Alfa Romeo Giulietta Just one Montesa now, 349 White Wonder Austin A40 Farina MK2 1975 Morris Marina 1.8TC 1973 Honda CB250 K4 |
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D3Jon Member Since: 15 Aug 2020 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 559 ![]() ![]() |
If you mean an engine flush additive, then that's generally regarded as bad practice these days. Modern oils have plenty of detergents already, and a well maintained car won't need any sort of flush additive. The detergents present in engine flushing additives are very harsh and can reportedly damage engine seals and also dislodge useful deposits that are helping slightly worn seals keep oil inside the engine. Best to avoid, in my opinion. There's a video on YouTube somewhere discussing how damaging a flush additive can be to your engine. As the car is new to you, I think the best advice (as stated by others), is to put in some cheaper oil of the correct spec, run it up to temperature and then drop that out. Or if you're feeling 'flush' (geddit...), do a double change with your more expensive oil! Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue 2014 Disco 4 HSE =================== Both my fatties now gone... Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus) |
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pcourtney Member Since: 14 Jan 2020 Location: Stansted Posts: 1015 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I concur - Jon is spot on - avoid all these additives, its not what you want in your engines ! |
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