Hi all, I’ve done a bit of research but just seeking clarification or confirmation from someone’s who’s done it.

I’ve got a 2009 (facelift) L322 3.6 TDV8. I’m getting an EGR engine light now and then and restricted performance almost every other start. The code is P0405 (EGR Sensor A Circuit Low) which, from research, points towards faulty/sticky EGR.

Naturally it’ll point towards new EGR(s) but I’m wondering if an EGR blank kit would sort this as I was looking to blank regardless to mitigate issues down the line.

If this is possible, does anyone know anyone local to the New Forest or Southampton who can do the post blank map? I’m confident on doing the plates but haven’t got an IID yet which is on the list!

Thanks in advance for any pointers,

Ryan

Lot’s of mixed opinions on here wrt EGR blanking, especially for the TDV8 3.6. I recently had a lengthy discussion with my Indy on this topic and was advised, for the 4.4, that the EGR was best left alone with the exception of periodic cleaning of the pipes & sensors.

The main factor is that the EGR affects intake temperature when operating so blanking results in lower temperature and so affects combustion. Further, most tuners ( i.e. those not performing dynamic rolling road mapping ) compensate for this by upping the fuel injection pressure which has long term impacts on the engine component reliability.

I guess it depends on budget & how long you intend to keep the truck……it may be best to simply renew the EGR and clean everything. TDV8 4.4 2012

Renewal is a lot of £££. All moden engines have IAT sensors so the ECU can compensate for normal changes in intake temp and measure fuel accuratley either from EGR function or driving on a hot or cold day. Increasing fuel pressure to compensate for a lack ofan EGR is simply not true. Increasing fuel pressure to increase power is a tuning strategy nothing to do with EGR's. EGR's can start to cause probelms as they wear, age or get carbon fouled as they start to slow down in their ability to shut off the egr flow when you come on power leading to hesitation or simply never close properly leading to all sorts of drivability issues. At worst and as it seems to be the case on the 3.6 engine they actual fall apart and throw parts into the turbo and engine. The 4.4 is a later engine with a more sophisticated and reliable EGR setup which is also integrated into the DPF soot control system so best left alone as you indy rightly points out. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Thanks for the inputs, some really interesting points and it's good to hear different views!

EGRs are ££ but it's also something I've factored into my purchase, along with turbos but, naturally, I'll not spend money where it's not necessary.

I'll do a bit more work on researching EGR blanks especially with my engine but, grasping wood..., since I've done a few long runs, I've not had any errors. Part of me thinks, the last owners 6mile (round!) trip commute wasn't doing the V8 any favours and it needed cobwebs blowing out.

We shall see but thanks again! Any other feedback is hugely welcome.

Ryan

The 3.6 is a much easier decision when it comes to EGR blanking. Overwhelming opinion is to blank them both of them. Do it physically and electronically. Former is easy via a kit. Latter requires a plug in which I would recommend you buy a gap IID Bluetooth and then get BAS to map it out over the internet. The IID is invaluable for code clearing and reading plus CCF updates etc. I wouldn’t drive an L322 without one in the glovebox for peace of mind.
 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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