Guys, have you read this thread? It ‘ends’ with a solution on running a parallel cable for the triggering wire… which has an inherent high resistance, that doesn’t seem to have ever been found, but fixed by running the second parallel cable from fuse box to starter motor. I had the issue, (like many) and changed starter but it remained… ran the paralllel cable and had no issues at all since. Here. (takes about 1/2 hour, and a £5 small reel of cable from Halfords) https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic31909-75.html

Garymahoo wrote:

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Hi all. Not much of a poster but my local auto electrician did a refurb on mine after a reconditioned unit dies after a week. We had already done the trigger wire to try to eliminate that but hey ho.
After the death of the recon unit i out my denso starter to my local and he sourced a kit.
Im sure i was +/- £100 for the refurb and had no issues since (nearly a year)

Ive put of a picture of his suppliers book but he did say getting an account was a nightmare.

Hopefully some other auto electricians use the same supplier.

Im in N.E Scotland but if you want Daves details just ping me a P.m

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Any update for the longgevity of the contacts that have been cleaned?
Brand new battery and have ran the parallel trigger wire but the clicks remain. I

It has deteriorated very quickly and does it almost every time now, so probably will try and get in there this weekend. Be handy if I can do it from the underside without messing around with the arch liner again.

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Any update for the longgevity of the contacts that have been cleaned?

Cheers, I have just gave this a go. Got the started unbolted (what a pain) , and trying to pull it forward out of its housing now.
Any tips on this? was struggling to pull it far enough to get the teeth forward to pass the housing.

Might be because I am tired so will pick up in the morning!

it take patience, many rotations and twists etc to get the right orientation to come out.
Once I got mine out, I thought I would remember and repeat to go back in. But it gave the same confusion when replacing. It will go though.

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Thanks, I was pushing it back against the rubber pipe but could not get the teeth past. Will give it a few twists and see how it goes!

However hard I tried I could not get my starter motor out.

In the end I loosened the anti roll bar by removing the 4 clamp nuts and the end links and then pushed it out of the way (without removing it) and that gave sufficient access.

It is a heavy lump in one hand when stretching and reaching around things! and lying on ones back in the rain. Great joy.

Still - a good feeling when all back together and it works as it should. 2011 4.4 TDV8

Update, my parallel wire did not fix the fault, but cleaning up the heavily burnt contacts did. Started each time since so hopefully this will last a fair few miles.

I removed my starter motor without unbolting anti-roll bar, just suspension at off-road height before jacking it up, it was an absolute pain.

First getting the pinion past the housing took a lot of wiggling.

If it helps, to get it out, I found first facing pinion towards the wheel as if you were pulling it out of the side... then rotating pinion facing upwards, and lowing 'tail' (?) first through the subframe. It needed a small rotation and twist as it came out.

At each point, it felt like it would not fit at all, and suddenly it was through without force. A lot of effort, but no idea how much a specialist would have charged to replace, so happy with the result.

Would like to give my update to this thread.

Last september i gave in - had the starter replaced and had not a moments worry anymore.

Until in November on a 44oC kalahari day the new started acted like the old one and got me extremely worried being so remote. Ofcourse back in Cape Town such heat is not an issue and the problem didnt persist.

I think in the end running the parralel wire down is the solution, and depending on state of solenoid contacts replacing the starter should aid for a long term cure.

Ta. 2011 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

RovingCanary wrote:

First getting the pinion past the housing took a lot of wiggling.

If it helps, to get it out, I found first facing pinion towards the wheel as if you were pulling it out of the side... then rotating pinion facing upwards, and lowing 'tail' (?) first through the subframe. It needed a small rotation and twist as it came out.

At each point, it felt like it would not fit at all, and suddenly it was through without force. A lot of effort, but no idea how much a specialist would have charged to replace, so happy with the result.