Hi Lads (and a few lasses).

Wondered if any of you experienced FFRRiacs could point me in the right direction (and don't say a Citroen 2CV!)

Seem to have an Intermittent Fault.

Was driving recently and thought I may have had a flat tyre. Pulled over, and all tyres were fine.
FFRR was experiencing a strange sensation, kind of like Surging or driving over continuous Rumble Strips on the road at speed .Seemed to be most prominant between 60-140 kph. Obvious 1st thought was Wheel Balancing...... Nope! All fine.

It is at times a VERY PRONOUNCED rumble/throbbing (not in the sence of a noise). Last week I had to go up the hills to collect my son. Thankfully my wife came along and witnessed the problem, as I am starting to feel like the guy who goes to the mechanic and the fault won't show on the day!

The rumble (or high frequency surging) was so bad, I thought the RR was going to sit down on me. Got home, and next day it is almost undetectable.

This is my first Diesel, so I am not at all familiar with it.

I was thinking that my problem was Drivetrain..... Gearbox or Torque Converter, or something like that because I also have a strange fault when slowly pulling away from traffic lights where I get this hesitant pause and gear-change.

Friendly Mechanic pal of mine pulled the Fault Codes:
P0196 - Engine Oil Temp Sensor Circuit?
P02AC - Cylinder #5 Balance - Injector Restricted?
P0405 - EGR Sensor & Circuit Low?
40155 - Transmission lost communication with Instrument Control Module?
..... and quite a few others!

The lads down the pub, of which a couple are mechanics, think it could be a lumpy (misfire) engine, OR indeed Drivetrain related, but because it is intermittent, I can't demonstrate the problem to them.

I HAVE Detected a slight lumpiness when stopped in traffic, and sometimes when doing a multi-point turn in a very tight carpark I get this THROBBING sensation in Drive and Reverse while holding her on the Brake. But, given that it may be just 1 cylinder (#5) out of 8, I wouldn't have thought it would give such a pronounced Throbbing when driving and at 2,000+ Revs. Hence why I was thinking it would be more like a Drivetrain issue.

Would really appreciate any thoughts which some of you guys might be able to offer. FullFat Porridge
2007 TDV8 Vogue.
2005 VTR 1000 SP2.
2012 Hayabusa.
2006 K1200 GT
1988 ur quattro.

Sounds like you may have a few "old" fault codes there as well, so suggest to fully reset all the codes. Then see which codes come up after that, that are related to the engine management

Next run some fuel injector cleaner for a while and maybe one or two tanks of best quality diesel (Shell/BP and the likes).

Have a look around the forum using search. You may just have simple EGR related clogging up or a dirty injector etc. EGR jobs sound like hard to do but cheap solutions (the cleaning that is).

Good luck. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Having done a bit of www trawling, I think the Dreaded LUC in the TC problem may be causing the "Cattle Grid" sensation.

Then that means the EGR Valves and Injector #5 faults are a separate problem.... again!

My Mechanic Friend had already cleared out the Fault History, to see what faults repeated.

Looks like an expensive year for FFRR Ownership. FullFat Porridge
2007 TDV8 Vogue.
2005 VTR 1000 SP2.
2012 Hayabusa.
2006 K1200 GT
1988 ur quattro.

Maybe your gearbox needs some TLC, oil and filter as well as a ECU update  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

When the symptoms first started, the first thing I did was to get the Gearbox Oil and Filter changed. There is a bit of Authorative chat about this being a not-uncommon problem, though very mixed opinions as to the cause and the actual cure!

Seems to be a general consensus that the TC needs to be replaced (as the LUC is welded in), but questions have arrisen about the quality of reconditioning work because replacement has NOT always resulted in a fix to the problem. Alternatively, the LUC may not have been the actual core of the problem in the first place? FullFat Porridge
2007 TDV8 Vogue.
2005 VTR 1000 SP2.
2012 Hayabusa.
2006 K1200 GT
1988 ur quattro.

The good thing is, your gearbox is not the dreaded GL but the much hallowed ZF 6 speed and although the ZF is not perfect, they are pretty solid. I have been researching the gearbox extensively due to my 3-4 shift issue and more recent transmission cooler problem and I get a feeling that it is pretty damn good (unless it had a hard life).

What is the mileage on your car ?

I am thinking (and hoping) that it is something simple like dirty injectors/EGR and the likes.

I had some issues with my fuel system as well and the clean of the injectors and inlet manifold seems to have helped (OK I did replace the filter and pump but mainly because the pump was so cheap and I don't trust the fuel here).

I would suggest to go the "cleaning" route first and then go for the more expensive repair options. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Goodness me, I forgot one of the classics !!! The rear caliper problem !!! When it heats up, it starts binding and cause some (if not all) of the symptoms you are describing (I have had it on mine).

Go for a drive and see if afterwards the disk(s) is/are piping hot ?? It is a classic FFRR problem (have a look around the forum) and is very easy to resolve i.e. replace the calipers (both). MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

I've had both issues sir... independantly. I thought I was imagining things!! it was like a flat tyre or rumble strip but I was only doing 15mph I got out to check for a flat tyre but nothing was amiss , its never happened again.

Fueling issue on mine was when it was partially warm and exactly as you decribe a kind of surging when parking or pulling away. Never ever did it from cold. I would say it was a misfire and a diagnostic proved thus by flagging up an injector fault. Prior to any further "expensive" work I was recommended to steer clear of supermarket fuel which I have, and to use Millers Eco max system cleaner which you add at every fill up, a few months down the road sweet as a nut and has never showed any signs of the mis firing or surging.

Give the stuff a go its only a tenner from Halfrauds !!  ...Always time for a brew !!

2006 TDV8 Vogue SE

BG244 Diesel Fuel System Cleaner

with the box being a 6 speed zf unit and not the 5 speed gm unit, as Ebajema has said it is a pretty robust unit. the GM box was made of chocolate and failed with regularity, was never really designed to be put in a 2.7t car maybe, but there seem to be few problems (ebajemas box rebuild excepted) with the zf. the hesitant shift from 1-2 is pretty common, and happens on quite a few cars. it can be improved with a software update, however it doesnt fully fix it. Mine does it on part throttle, but is smooth as a nut on full welly.

First port of call is to run injector cleaner for a few tanks and see if that sorts it.

also check out the rear calipers, they are prone to binding which can cause the problems you have. get the brakes hot (a few big stops) then leave them for ten mins or so. the get a cup of water and chuck it at the discs. it one hisses that is the one binding. new calipers are cheap to replace.

have your codes re read and see what comes up when cleared, this will point to a fueling issue, possibly an injector, but you may fix this with a few doses of cleaner. cheaper than a TC. I always work from cheapest fix through to most expensive, so these would be my first port of call. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Porridge wrote:

When the symptoms first started, the first thing I did was to get the Gearbox Oil and Filter changed. There is a bit of Authorative chat about this being a not-uncommon problem, though very mixed opinions as to the cause and the actual cure!

Seems to be a general consensus that the TC needs to be replaced (as the LUC is welded in), but questions have arrisen about the quality of reconditioning work because replacement has NOT always resulted in a fix to the problem. Alternatively, the LUC may not have been the actual core of the problem in the first place?

I thought the TDV8 had the 8-speed box? Also don't throw water on your brakes, buy a cheap children's external thermometer (the type you put on your forehead) and use that on each WHEEL (not the disc rotor) after a run. It'll pick up the variation in wheel temps without the risk an tell you which wheel is binding.

Sounds to me like a misfire issue I'd take Gaz's advice as it'll clear out the engine at th same time. Most cars suffer from not being revved hard once in a while. The higher temps created are great for burning off any deposits that at accumulating.

If the injector is blocked then its cheaper to have them ultrasonicly cleaned and balanced than they are to replace. You'll also benefit from a better spray pattern and slight (probably undetectable) performance gain. 
07 Supercharged - Still breaking her in!

Boot soundproofing part 1 - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15612.html
Custom exhaust - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15296.html
18" wheels for Brembo equipped cars - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15052.html

Do not throw water on brakes ever, especially hot ones. That's a sure fire way to get a warped or cracked disc, not to mention the risk of steam burns!! Should've been old enough to know better...doh!
Current 2010 5.0 SC Autobiography
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TheAllSeeingPie wrote:

I thought the TDV8 had the 8-speed box?.

The 3.6 gets the 6 speed and the 4.4 gets the 8 speed

What did this problem turn out to be? Mine has the same issue, it's currently at the mechanics and he hopes to know today.