Hi there,
stupidly last week realised that I drove about 10 miles with the handbrake not totally off. I know! Idiot! Anyway after I tried handbrake and found little to no effect. Now the optomistic part of me points out that I had never tested it before so maybe theres no change! Anyway I adjusted the handbrake via the adjustment wheels both rear hubs and no have a slight effect but I think slightly binding even after the factory set up process.
When I adjusted them the right hind was very difficult to turn compared to the left and wasnt sure if the shoes were re centering with handbrake use.
Anyway a few questions:
1. How good is the handbrake anyway? I can easily pull away without any revs in reverse and drive with it fully on unless on a slight slope helping the brakes.
2. Are there any major difficulties with replacing the handbrake shoes? I might as well change the rear pads at the same time. Any special big sockets or anything spring to mind?
Cheers in advance!
T

Have you ever had the Discs/Drums off the back?
I ask as my handbrake was useless, took the drums off and found the shoes and drum surfaces totally coated with polished c p.
Cleaned both the drum surfaces and shoes, re-assembled and adjusted, no further problems.
I don't think mine had been cleaned out since new despite FLRSH.
Shoes shouldn't really wear at all, after all you only apply the handbrake when you've stopped.

No special tools required.

See here: http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=454

Jack up (follow correct guidance) & chock wheels not being removed
Wheel off
5/8 socket seemed best to release brake caliper
Remove caliper and support
Remove anti squeal spring
Remove caliper guide covers
Remove pads
Remove caliper guide carrier (clean up caliper and guide pins before refitting)
Allen key (not sure what size, just under normal hex screwdriver size) needed to undo disc retaining bolt
Remove brake adjuster cover if fitted
Release handbrake
Turn adjuster back a bit to release shoes
Remove disc
Release shoe holder pins
Remove top spring
Remove shoes

Give everything a good clean with brake cleaner

Refit with new parts
Adjust handbrake
Bed in rear brake pads (by doing @ 7 60-5 mph emergency stops (no skidding now)
Bed in handbrake shoes by putting handbrake on and driving about 400m (yes, that is what is says in RAVE! IIRC)

I have tracked down on eBay discs, pads and shoes for £97 if you want the links.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

No I havent yet but was going to get the pads in advance but maybe I shouldnt?!
T

No pads for the handbrake, only shoes

Quite.
Slip of the finger.
T

OK the plot thickens.

I finally had time to take a peek at the shoes and have a problem. Firstly the shoes as were worn down to metal. However on the right wheel the adjuster and bottom spring were rattling around inside the drum. Without having new shoes to hand I replaced along with the arrow headed holding pins half way up the shoes. However the back plate is so corroded that I was not sure these pins would hold and lo and behold within a week all has fallen apart again by the sound of things.
So question is has anyone replaced these pins with bolts through the back plate with washers and lock nuts obviously with enough movement to allow the shoes to move as normal and with springs on them to keep the shoes in the right place?
Equally do new shoe kits come with replacement tension springs??
Cheers
T

The shoes will not come with the springs you ll need to order a spring kit for it.

Regards

Get something like this ebay item: eBay Item No. 350549775496
and some washers .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Ah thats interesting. I have taken off all the rust off the back plate and actually the slotted holes are in good nick, I just dont seem to be able to get enough 'tension' on the hold back bolts to keep the shoes in place when they are adjusted correctly. Maybe the new springs and pins being sent out will prove better than the originals. Time will tell.
Also got some pads en route as long as the chassis number complies with the pad shape as I am on the cusp of the 2005/06 cars and have found that the left rear caliper is only wearing one pad though the cylinder moves freely.
Losing the will to live!
T

My drivers side "holes" pulled the retainers through when I took the disc off. I just tapped the "holes" back into shape with a hammer. It may be that the innards only fell apart when you took the disc off? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

No you could hear it rattling around inside the disc/drum, sounded like a bag of nails!
Had half an hour free today so removed the entire guts from the right drum so now driving handbrakeless and in peace!
Except immediately I stopped I pulled handbrake on so will be interested to see where the cable end has finished up when the new shoes arrive.
T