This morning was time for a spark plug change out.

Removed the engine cover and then removed the drivers side Head Cover. I noticed it appeared to be damp inside which I was sure shouldn't be the case. I then decided to start the FF just to see whether there was any sort of leak and it was at this point I could hear a distinct knocking.

My first thought was a big end but it has been over 20 years since I have had to do any engine diagnostics so not really sure but decided to investigate the cost of a rebuild anyway.

I have had quotes for remanufacturing my engine starting at £2500 right upto £7000. Does anyone know why there is such a huge difference in quotes? I even had a quote for a secondhand 50k engine close to £5000.

Not really sure of my next step but I guess get the FF to an engine builder for investigation, anyone been down this road before? 2002 Vogue Epsom Green with Ivory Leather.
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I'd double check what you can hear first - a big end will knock at idle and often either go away or get (much) worse under load.

If you do go for a remanufactured engine you get what you pay for. A reconditioned engine isn't the same as a remanufactured engine for a start. Some of the cheaper places take a lot of short cuts.

To remanufacture the engine is completely stripped - the block is cleaned and then usually nut-blasted too (like sand blasting but using walnut shells as the media) - then crack tested. Then the bores etc are measured and then rebored and honed to a factory oversize, but all tolerances to factory spec. The same for every other component.

Crankshaft will be ground and all the journals will be to factory spec for ovality, barrel, run out etc etc. Oil pumps etc the same.

A Reconn often is just honed, old pistons nut-blasted and back in with oversize rings, a quick skim of the cranks and new shells...

These engines do seem quite bullet proof though - unless it's run out of oil, or the pump has had it?

Cheers for that.

It's very strange as I was up yesterday at the Indy's getting codes read to investigate error codes on my suspension and O2 sensors and when he read the error codes he said it had registered misfires on cylinders 6 & 7 and he recommended me to get the spark plugs changed, and then we would have another look at the O2 sensors because the O2 sensors appeared to be working correctly.

That's why I was at the spark plugs this morning. 2002 Vogue Epsom Green with Ivory Leather.
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could it be your vanos?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VANOS

if you search "vanos" [with quotes] theres loads on the forum re this.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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I'll investigate that route right away, I did get an impression it was from the head but the noise sounded like something I had heard many years ago and it was a crank bearing.

Fingers crossed Vanos though. 2002 Vogue Epsom Green with Ivory Leather.
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If you can't hear it with the acoustic covers in place, it can't be that serious!

After Stan mentioned the Vanos, I found someone had put a video on utube and it does sound the same. His noise he could still hear with the covers on.

Is the Vanos easy to fix or change? 2002 Vogue Epsom Green with Ivory Leather.
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No.

But they don't often go wrong - I'd change the oil for some nice new stuff, change the plugs and stop worrying if/until something goes wrong!

Edit: Mines got a knock when it's warm that I'd swear was big ends - but it's the left hand catalytic converter clonking away.

Last edited by Simes on 7th Feb 2013 5:04pm. Edited 1 time in total

It's worth noting that the BMW engine is almost a throw-away item. I looked at this a while back for a cheap 4.4 I was considering. That one had a blown engine.

Anyway, replacement parts are STD only, i.e. no oversized pistons so re-bore was not possible, same thing on the crankshaft so no re-grinding of that.

The only place I got to take it seriously was an Engineering place in High Wycombe (C&K Engineering) and they can make custom big & main end bearings etc. Needless to say it was not exactly cheap. They couldn't help with an overbore due to the block not being able to take it.

Anyway, as long as the bores are OK you can fit new pistons and you do have one or two options on the crank. That makes it do-able as long as the wallet can stand it. I was looking at about £5k for that.

I certainly feel happier with all the advice.

I'll go for the oil change and make sure the right grade of oil is going back in, is it 10/40? Then do the spark plugs. And keep my fingers crossed.

My 6 weeks of ownership is starting to grind me down a bit. 2002 Vogue Epsom Green with Ivory Leather.
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Rave says:

Engine oil - Petrol vehicles

Use a 0W/30, 0W/40, 5W/30 or 5W/40, 5W/50 oil meeting specification
ACEA: A3 and B3 and having a viscosity band recommended for the temperature range of your
locality.
NOTE: ACEA A2 oils are also suitable.

Simes

I've just been reading a big description of the Vanos fitted to the BMW engines by "kilovolt" . He came up when I was searching the Vanos problem and he states (not sure whether right or wrong) that the oil should be 10/40 (Fully Synthetic) at least for the M3 as any thinner adage rates the noise.

Do you think this would be appropriate or do you think I should stick with the Rave 2002 Vogue Epsom Green with Ivory Leather.
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Actually it's bloody freezing up here in the Highlands so maybe 5/40 would be fine in these temps?  2002 Vogue Epsom Green with Ivory Leather.
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I'd stick with Rave - as you say, at this time of year all oil is as thick as grease!

just a headsup, eurocarparts are offering 25% of castrol oils at the moment using code OIL25.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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