Just a quick update............

My mechanic friend has now manually put the transfer box in high, bolted the Transfer Shift Motor (TSM) back on but not connected the power loom.He said it seems to drive OK (I've not tried it myself yet). I'm guessing I will be getting plenty of TRANS FAILSAFE PROG at the message centre.

Has anyone else disconnected their TSM? If so, did the car still start, run, drive OK? Could this be a short term work around so that at least the car is mobile whilst I source a new TSM? 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

Might be worth a look ;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Transfer-Box-for...2a2a7b09a0

just realised wrong model year sorry . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Thanks - I did see that and then saw it is for a later car.

To be honest, in the very short term, I am very happy to drive with the TSM disconnected (assuming the message centre doesn't forever bong at me) and as long as I'm not doing any lasting damage elsewhere..... 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

Hi All,

I could do with some advice please.

To recap on the position:- I put the L322 into low range whereupon the transfer shift motor failed. As a short term resolution, the transfer box has manually been put into high, the transfer shift motor bolted back on but the TSM loom is disconnected.

Question: Will the car stay in high range or is there any chance of the tranfer box jumping into neutral??

So, as expected, I get TRANS FAILSAFE PROG once at igniton on and again at igntion off. I can live with that for the moment.

The car is not driving great though:
- If shift the gear lever to the left it no longer says "Sport Mode" it goes straight to "Manual Mode"
- If I drive flat out full throttle, the gearbox changes at approx. 3,500 RPM
- When slowing for a corner (e.g. turning into a junction) the tranmission feels lumpy, a bit like driving a manual car and not putting the clutch in.

At a total guess here, whilst my transfer box is actually in "High" the ECU thinks the vehicle is in "Low".

Any thoughts or comments pleaae? 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

Unless there is something really wrong, there is no physical way the transfer box can move you to Neutral or Low if there is no power going to the motor.

Leaving the loom disconnected is likely to upset the "balance" of things computerised in the car. No reason why it needs to be disconnected IMO, unless it generates more faults than without?

Not sure about the additional problems you are having, but could be because of the above...

Of course, you will have to get the fault cleared to make it go away! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi Tim, Good to hear from you.

Well hopefully it will stay in High Range then!

Joe90 wrote:

Leaving the loom disconnected is likely to upset the "balance" of things computerised in the car. No reason why it needs to be disconnected IMO, unless it generates more faults than without?

I can't plug the loom in as the TSM will put the transfer box back into Low Range and there it will stay! (The Hi / Low Switch is dead) I'm guessing this is because the transfer box ECU last remembers the vehicle being in Low Range and therefore wants to put it back there. What I need is to be able to plug the loom in to a "good" TSM, switch it back to High Range would probably resolve it.

Why are those TSMs so ing expensive?????!!!!!! 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

Sorry Steve, I forgot that was what it did when connected.

So we have the same problem with different symptoms:

1. Me: Can go to Low but can't come back to High, but if in High I stay there. (and I have tested with a brand new TSM)
2. You:Can go to Low (or car puts you there) but can't get back to High, but ECU will always put you back into Low

Starting to point to an ECU issue? (other pipe in with their thoughts please)

It is possible to get these checked out. There are firms out there who will ensure all the solders are connected and the ECU is functioning properly. means removing the ECU (I did a howto ) and sending it off for a few days, plus parting with ££, or £££ depending on what is found!

Anyone got a spare TBox ECU we can try ? Does it need programming to the car ? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

SKOT, this could be caused by the gear linkage. I suggest to execute the famous "Gaz method". Use WD-40 and liberally spray the gear linkage underneath the car and then cover it is white grease to prevent future issues. Although I would probably use Shell Rhodina II as it is ideally suited for this sort of work (designed for open gear connections on sea going vessels). Rhodina is not something you can easily get (unless you have a very nice father that donates his 60% full 5 kg tin to you of course). MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Also found this post with useful alternative info, worth a try?

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic11791.html?

and this over on landyzone:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/1888815-post7.html

This also has promise (read all three pages)

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...erate.html

(and looks like you were right, seems you can only get a new switch with the whole panel Best price I found was with a co. called Furness on ebay £80 but sadly SOLD!)

Apparently car will run fine if switch not connected up so that also might be worth a try? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi Tim,

Many thanks for searching this out for me, it's much appreciated. Some good things to follow up there.....

The FF has physically stayed in High Range. It's not a very nice driving experience though. It changes gear at 3,500 RPM (unless you hold manual) and it judders when you approach a junction, it I put it into manual it's in 3rd or 4th so it's clearly not changing down. A bit like being in a manual and not putting your foot on the clutch! I also have no sport mode, it goes straight to manual.

I have had a play with the TSM today................
If I randomly stop the TSM Pins 1 & 2 vary between 1.30 and 4.95 kilohms.

With the TSM in the High Range (approx. 11 O'Clock position) I get Pins 1 & 2 = 4.883 kilohms and Pins 2 & 4 = 1.39 kiohms.

Sound OK so far? If not, please shout!

My process for tomorrow:

If I bolt and connect the TSM to the car, I suspect it will go straight to Low Range accompanied with a "bong" and TRANS FAILSAFE PROG" so I am just going to connect the loom and see what it does.

I'm also going to try the fuse 37 process and also check fuse 33 is OK.

The transfer box ECU reset procedure looks interesting, I will keep an open mind and give it a go!

Then out with the High/Low switch and a good old paper clip to see if I can make my own switch. I'm hoping the High/Low switch has just two connectors?!

I very much hope it's the swtich but equally I'm not sure this would be causing all of the TFSPs I have had over the last months........

I will keep you posted. In the meantime, all thoughts and suggestions are very welcome!! 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

So.........

I checked fuse 33 - All ok.
Followed the Transfer Box ECU Reset procedure - No difference.
I connected the TSM loom but didn't bolt it to the car and could hear it whirring - I guess moving to low range.
Inserted fuse into 37 - Nothing (I think it was already bonging "TRANSFER BOX NEUTRAL" at this point.
Got lots of TRANS FAILSAFE PROG messages up. Also lots of "TRANSFER BOX NEUTRAL" messages. The High/Low switch appears to be OK, as occasionally I would get TFSP when I pressed it but otherwise it's dead and won't shift the TSM back to High Range.
I plugged in RSW All Comms and got the messages below, when I cleared them I could here the TSM whirring for about 20 seconds then it stopped in the 12 O' clock position followed by yet another TFSP message.

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

It is possible to test the resistance of the wires from the ECU to the TSM.

1. Remove Battery

2. Locate the ECU behind the battery against the bulkhead and remove the ECU.

3. Then follow these wise words from the guru RRPhil:

You should find that the ECU has three multiplugs on the top :

The left-hand one (C1855) has the thick ‘power’ cables - 2 red, 2 red/white and 4 brown (earths). The red wires are battery feeds, the red/white ones are the ones which power the shift motor and two of the brown wires are the corresponding earth wires connected to the shift motor.

The middle plug (C1854) should just have 3 thin wires – these are the shift motor potentiometer connections :

Black wire at the ECU is the 5V reference feed from the ECU to the potentiometer and connects to pin 4 at the shift motor connector (= yellow wire at the potentiometer inside the motor)
Yellow wire at the ECU is for the potentiometer voltage which is sent back to the ECU and connects to pin 2 at the shift motor connector (= red wire at the potentiometer inside the motor)
Brown wire at the ECU is the ground wire from the ECU to the potentiometer and connects to pin 1 at the shift motor connector (= green wire at the potentiometer inside the motor)

So measuring the resistance between the yellow and brown wires at the ECU should give you the same reading as measuring between pins 1 & 2 at the shift motor connector (with the shift motor plug connected, obviously)

The right hand plug (C1319) should have eight wires and these are the various connections to the CAN bus, diagnostic socket, transmission ECU, Fuse 37, etc.

I guess with care you can check the power feeds to the motor as well.

Perhaps someone can advise on how to test that the switch is working properly (NDFI ?) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks Tim. Very useful.

UPDATE

I had the vehicle plugged in to T4. As suspected, the FF THOUGHT it was in low range.

I took the TSM off, removed the potentiometer and spun that around on my finger a few times. Took the brush cover off and had a poke around in there (without a clue of what I was looking for of course!), I then put it all back together and put 12V to the motor and ran it for 10 minutes or so.

I lined the motor up to 11 o'clock, bolted back on to the transfer box, connected the loom. With ignition on I had *BONG* High Range on the dash centre which is a result. T4 cleared the faults and nothing came back.

The vehicle now drives in high range (which is much better) and to date, I've had no TFSP errors. I am not naive enough to think that it won't come back so I'm keeping an open mind!

I haven't tried switching to low range on the basis that if the TSM does fail I'm stuck in low again!

It's just really nice driving around with everything in high and no errors on the dash  2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks Tim - Let's see how it goes. One day I may even have the bottle to try "Low" but for now I am just pleased to be able to use it properly again!

If nothing else, our learning from this is that the vehicle CAN be used / driven with the TSM loom disconnected. The transfer box ECU should preferably think it is in High at the point of disconnect but it will work. You get one TFSP at ignition on and again on ignition off (the stored fault) and no faults inbetween. So whilst not perfect, it's a reasonable compromise. 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav